Thursday, February 7, 2008

Corset Top by LisaZoe

Get these measurements of your child (see illustration):
A. around the chest
B. from underarm to 1-2" below the waist
C. from 1-2" below the waist to where the upper edge of the top will be
D. across the top of the chest, about where the upper edge of the top will
E. over shoulder from about where the upper edge of the top will be in
front to just below underarm level in the back (this is for straps)
 Cut the front piece 1/2 the length of measurement A plus 3" for
ease and seam allowance. The width is equal to measurement C
plus 1.25" for seam allowance. Following illustration, cut armscye (I
fold my fabric in half widthwise so I can cut both at once). Cut a
second piece identical in size and shape for the lining.
 Cut the back piece the length of measurement A and width of
measurement B plus 1.5" for seam & hem allowance.
 Cut bottom ruffle twice the length of A plus 1.25" for seam
allowance and 3.5" wide to allow for a ruffle about 2.5" wide plus
hem and seam allowance. Sometimes I can do this in one piece
cut across width of fabric but sometimes I need 2 pieces of equal
length (the length of A plus 1.25" for seam allowance).
 Cut 2 straps the length of measurement E plus 1.25" for seam
allowance and 3.5" wide.
 Hem the top edge of the back by folding over 1/4" then folding again 1/4". Press and then stitch in place. Do the first row
of shirring stitches about 3/4" from hemmed edge and then approximately every 3/4" stopping about 2" from bottom
edge. I back stitch the start and end of each row plus hand tie the elastic in knots every two rows.
 Fold strap pieces lengthwise with right sides together, stitch the length of each strap, turn rightside out, press with seam
centered on what will be the back side of the straps.
 Pin straps to main top piece along upper edge approximately 1"
from outer edge. For best results the straps should be angled

slightly so once they are attached they will angle away from the
neck (see illustration). With strap pieces in place and front pieces
right sides together, stitch along top edge and both armscyes.
 Sandwich shirred back section between two front pieces making
sure right side of back faces right side of main front piece and hem
of back section is at underarm. Pin the 3 pieces together along
side seams and stitch. Turn rightside out and press along seam.
 Stitch side seams of ruffle piece(s) and hem along bottom of ruffle like back section was hemmed. Baste along top edge
of one half the length of the ruffle along seam line and then again 1.4" from edge. Note: The ruffle will only need to be
gathered along half the length since it will be sewn to the back section without gathering (the shirring of the back will
casue the ruffle to look gathered). Pin in place to the bottom edge of the main top pieces and stitch. Press along seam
toward main section and topstitch if desired.
 At this point I think it's easiest to have your child try on the top so you can pin the straps in place in the back or at least
mark where you'd attach them and the final length. I usually hem the bottom edge of the straps to give them a nice edge
then stitch them to the back along at least two of the shirring lines. I don't stretch out the shirring so it gets stitched over
and is not longer stretchy in those places but it works.
 Sit back and take pride in what you've created. :-)

No comments: