Monday, August 22, 2011

Easy Fits into Roll-Up Pants Tutorial

No longer will anyone have to ask "Does anyone have a tutorial for how to make roll-up pants using Carla C's Easy Fit pattern?" only to find out the answer is "No." This might not be the clearest set of directions, but I tried to take pictures every step of the way and made notes of each thing I did. If anyone tries using this tutorial and finds a different way to do something, would you please post about it??? I'd really appreciate it!!!

Easy Fits into Roll-Up Pants Tutorial

1. Cut out pants using next size up pattern pieces (to allow for extra room for French seams). I'm using a size 7 for my son who has a 27" out seam and a 24" waist.

2. Cut the pants using the basic pattern piece.

3. Cut your solid fabric (the inner "lining" fabric if you will) from the knee to the hem. Ideally you would measure from the waist to the knee and from the knee to the ground. Carla C has a 1.25" waist allowance at the top of the pant pattern piece and a 4.5" hem allowance at the bottom. My son is 11" from waistband to knee and 16" from knee to floor. I cut his inner fabric 16" long and used the pants pattern for shape.

Really this piece of fabric needs to be long enough to roll the pants up as high as you wish. For my boys they like to be able to roll them to knee length. Some might only want Capri length (and wouldn't need as much material). You could see how the cuff pattern piece would work for you. It worked fine to make an AG a cute pair of roll-up capris.
Mine is 16" long.

4. Sew the right sides of the two pieces together at the bottom of the pants pieces. (Just like Carla C. directs for sewing on a cuff)

5. Iron seam towards main fabric

6. Pin pants pieces wrong sides together. I'm using French seams, remember? Sew center crotch using a 1/4" seam allowance.

7. Flip pants so that right sides are together. Iron seam so you have a nice crisp fold.

8. Sew center crotch again making sure to catch your seam inside. 3/8" should be good. Be sure to go back and sew over the crotch with a second reinforcing stitch! Stitch up about an inch from the bottom of the seam on both sides.

9. Turn pants right side out so that the two sides are folded in half and the crotch seams are together. Match up the crotch seams and pin legs. Be sure to have your lining piece still hanging down outside the pant leg. Sew inseam using 1/4" seam allowance. Be sure to sew back and forth at your start and stop to hold stitch in place!

10. Remove pins and turn pants inside out. Put right sides together. Iron seams and then sew again using 3/8" seam allowance. The pants seem REALLY long right now, huh?

11. Turn right side out again and iron open those seam again!

12. Turn lining inside the pants leg now. Your main fabric should turn inside just a little (this way when worn as full length pants the inner fabric doesn't show at the bottom).

13. Hem pants. I use a double needle because I like how it looks more finished. I use an inch seam allowance here. If you are using a double needle make sure you sew on the right side of your fabric!!!!

14. Sew your waistband according to CarlaC's directions.

15. Now - you need 4 tabs. I made mine 2"x10". I cut 8 strips and sewed them together using 1/4" seam. Be sure to leave an opening at one end for turning! Turn and tuck the little bit of raw edge in and iron and then top stitch all the way around (again 1/4").

16. Try the pants on your LO. Roll up one pant leg to where you'll want it to be when the tabs are in use. Stick a pin in the edge and carefully remove from child. Mine ended up being at 14" up from the hem.

17. Turn pants inside out and press flat so that your inseams match up (inner and outer fabrics). Pin your tabs one inch above your measurement (so mine is pinned at 15"). Pin one tab on the inseam and one where the out seam would be.

18. Sew tabs on using either a double needle or two rows of stitching. Be sure you aren't sewing the pant leg closed!!! Also be sure you're catching both the inner and outer fabrics!!!

19. Roll them up and pin the tabs up and around to the stitching on the outside of the pant legs!!! Admire your work! You're almost done!

20. Here's where you have to decide what type of fasteners you want . . . Buttons or snaps. Sew buttons to stitching on outside of pant legs. Button holes go on the tabs. If you choose snaps I'd put the male half on the pant leg and the female half on the tab.

21. You are done! Take a picture of the fabulousness you created!


Friday, March 18, 2011

Embroidering a T-shirt on a machine by AimeeG

Posted by AimeeG

First I gathered all of my supplies

Then I copied the design file to a thumb drive. Some designers also include a stitch map with the design file. It's a great tool to have. It tells you step by step what colors to use. My machine does not have a fancy screen and sometimes it is very hard to tell what step is what color.

It's essential to use stabilizer. What kind is up to your own preference. I use Sulky Stick Back. I know some say that it gums up the needle but . . . you really should change your needle after each project anyway. It's really the only stabilizer I use for machine or hand applique.

There are several ways to hoop your shirt but this is what seems to work for me. I cut right the side seam of the shirt. Then I lay the shirt flat with the hoop resting on top. I use the the vertical and horizontal ticks to help me line up my shirt. Using a fabric pen I put a dot by each mark and a dot in the center. Then I hoop the shirt.

When I stick on the stabilizer I make sure that I go right up to the notches on the bracket but not over them.

Now it's time to select the pattern. One day I hope to fancy machine with a color screen but for now it's the screen that reminds me of our Brother Word Processor from 1990.

Before I start a design I hit the adjust button. Here you can do lots of things like flip the design and change the size. I always double check the placement of the design. This cupcake is about 5 x 5 so the design is centered in the hoop. That is great but it is too far down the tee shirt. I use the arrow buttons to adjust where the top of the design is.

The first set of stitches is your placement mark. Here is another time saver tip- My machine only has one thread so I have to change it a lot. As long as it is not black I normally do all the placement and tack down stitches with the first color that will be satin stitched. For the design yellow is the first satin stitch color.

I also use a spray adhesive. I have never been successful without this spray. I know others have but my fabric seems to pucker without it! When it's time to spray my fabric I use this handy dandy box. I turn the fabric upside down and lay it in the base of the box. Spraying in the box contains the excess glue from sticking up the desk or the floor.
 The next stitch is the tack down stitch. You have to be very careful to cut
very close to the edge of the stitch without cutting the thread. When I trim the excess fabric I like to pull the fabric slightly. It helps to get a close trim.

Next the cupcake liner fabric was added and the cupcake outline was stitched. Another tip is to cut your jump threads as you go. A jump thread is where the stitching stops and jumps to another part of the design. It keeps the applique neat if you cut these threads after each color. I find this especially true when doing eyes.

And there you have it. . .


Thursday, March 17, 2011

Ruffle Socks By 1308Miles

These were posted  by 1309miles on the Dis:

 I used ribbon that is 1.5" in width (but also used 7/8" ribbon...smaller widths tend to flip upward after they are sewn.)

Measure the width of the sock and quadruple it to determine the length of ribbon to use (for example, DDs socks measured 4", so I used 16" of ribbon.)

Find the back of the sock (where the ankle goes) and place a pin there.

Turn the sock inside out and slip it on the free arm of your sewing machine. It should be stretched to about double the width. Be sure that it is stretched enough or else it will be too tight to wear!

Align the edges of the ribbon and the sock.

Pin the ribbon to the sock (begin where you placed the pin at the ankle) wrong side up leaving a 1" length of ribbon hanging.

Zigzag stitch the ribbon to the sock.

Once you have zigzagged around the sock, you should have about 1" on either end hanging freely at the pin you placed at the ankle.

Place those right-sides together and straight stitch those.

Cut the excess and heat seal the edges.