Are you running Windows Vista or Windows 7? If you are, you are not suppose to install the CD software on your computer, you need to download it from the Brother site.
Make sure your reader is plugged in and you have a card in the slot.
Can you open up the PED Basic software from your Program Menu (or if it's like mine, it installed a shortcut on my toolbar, I click that)?
If you already have the PES files on your computer and you can open the PED software, click on the little file folder at the top of the window that opens up.
Click on the folder where you have your embroidery designs, click "Ok"
They should now show up on the left side of your screen. If they don't, make sure your files are in PES format and that they are all unzipped.
Once they are showing up, click on the one(s) you want to put on your card, then hit the arrow button in the middle of the screen.
The design will now show up on the right side of the screen.
This will transfer your designs to your card. It will warn you that it will overwrite all existing designs on the card, (like when you erase the pictures from the memory card on your camera). click ok, or continue or whatever it is.
It will tell you to wait a minute, then it will pop up that the transfer is complete.
Take the card out of the reader and put it in your machine.
I only have a Brother 270D, but on my machine, when the card is in and the embroidery unit is on, there is a little symbol that looks kind of like the memory card, I click that and it will show all my designs that are on my card.
Click the one you want to stitch, and you should be good to go.
When you have all the designs on the right side you want, click the arrow thingy on the bottom of the right side of the screen.
Thursday, March 11, 2010
Monday, February 15, 2010
Pick-up Pleats
http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?p=3536I had asked on the Dis if anyone could help me figure out how to do these little pick up pleats. I was answered by FairyGoodmother:
Teresa, I think you're on the right track with the Precious Dress, and of course, Carla's sash. As for the "pick-ups" in the skirt, figure that you'll "pinch" about 1.5" per pickup, so however many rows of pickups you want, multiply that by 1.5 to figure your length. Place your pickups kinda in a pattern, like this:
.....X..........X
X..........X..........X
.....X..........X
As long as you have the same measurement between them, you'll be fine. Does that make sense?
The pickups are just that...you pick up the fabric, pinch it, then hand stitch it to hold in place. Oftentimes they're then covered up with roses, buttons, jewels.
I then asked her if the pleats should be made on the inside of the dress:
no - you pinch it on the outside and stitch it.
You actually COULD do it from the inside but the look is a bit different.
Play with it; see what look you prefer.
Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to try this out on the dress I was making. I plan on trying it someday though! If you've tried it, send me a picture and I'll add it to this post.
Shopping Cart Cover by Adi12982
This was first posted on the Dis by Adi12982
Click on the picture to see the whole thing
What you need:
- Two different fabrics each 1 1/3 yards each (or a total of 2 and 2/3 yards if you want to use the same fabric on both sides)
- 1 1/3 yards of batting (the thicker the fluffier, not necessary, but nice)
- 1" wide elastic, 1 3/4 yards of it
- 1 package of matching double folded bias tape
OPTIONAL - if you want to have your own straps, instead of using the ones on the shopping cart - then:
- 1 yard of seat belt strapping
- 1 plastic locking seat belt connector
Instructions:
- lay your two pieces of fabric, right sides together and the batting and pin.
- stitch around the entire outer edge of the fabric (not the leg/belt holes - just the 4 outside edges of the cover).
I try to use only about a 1/4 - 1/2" seam around the outer edge so that you aren't taking up too much of the fabric. Stitch a solid
seam all the way around the outer edge of the cover and stop stitching about 6" before the starting point so that you end up
with a hole that you will use to turn the cover right side out.
- Turn the cover right side out.Top stitch around the VERY outer edge of the cover leaving the same 6" "hole" the way around to give the cover some added strength and a neat appearance.
- Now, you will stitch another seam around the outer edge, but not on the very edge, this seam will be 2" in from the outer edge of the cover. This seam will be a casing for the elastic around the outer edge. Make this seam 2" in from the outer edge all the way around the cover. You do not need to account for the "hole". (Now, when you look at your fabric, you will see one seam going all the way around the very outer edge, with an 8” section where you left an opening. Then, you will see another seam 2” further in from the first seam. This seam goes all the way around, without an opening. It starts and stops at the same place, without any gap.
7. At this point, you will want to finish your leg and seat belt holes. You can use the seam tape, which makes a nice, clean
appearance or you can use a serger or even a tight zig zag stitch close to the edge of the fabric. Whatever you chose to use is
up to you and depends on the look you want. What I do is mark with a fabric marker where the leg and seat belt holes should go, and then do an initial stitching around where I will be cutting, then I cut just inside - this helps keep it all together a little easier than just pinning (which I used to do).
- after cutting out the holes I then attach the bias tape around the leg hole cuts I made and the ones for the seat belt.
8. Now is time for the elastic. It is the hardest to do using a safety pin (your hands will get tired and it will take a while, but it can be done). What I have been using is one of those cheap curtain rods - I take the plastic cap of the end and push the elastic in a bit and then recap, and push through. If you have real tools for it, have at it. .. just get it through
Whichever way you use, once you have the elastic through
the casing and have both ends of the elastic back at the 8“opening, you will need to stitch the two ends of the elastic together
tightly so that it doesn't come apart. Once that’s done, stitch the 8" hole closed at the top/finish the edge top stitching.
9. Lastly, you need to make the seat belt, if you are making one. Split the seat belt material in half and attach at either side. I've never done this, but have seen that some do.
Double Cart Cover Alternate Instructions: To make the double cart cover, you will do everything exactly as stated in the original pattern, except you will need to make 4 leg holes instead of two and you'll need to make 4 seat belt holes instead of 2. You will need to purchase 2 yards of seat belt strapping, 2 locking clips for the seat belts and extra binding, since one package, most likely, will not cover all 4 leg holes and all 4 seat belt holes. To add the leg holes, you will need to cut one additional leg hole on either side of the original 2 leg holes. Space them 2" apart from the original holes, just as the two original holes are spaced 2" apart. So, you will end up with 9.5" of fabric left from the edge of the outer holes to the edge of the fabric, instead of the 16.5" which is shown in the original pattern. To add the seat belt holes, you will just look at the leg holes as two sets and put one hole above the outer edge of the leg holes of each set. (see the original iagram for placement above the set of leg holes and do this with each of the two sets).
Click on the picture to see the whole thing
What you need:
- Two different fabrics each 1 1/3 yards each (or a total of 2 and 2/3 yards if you want to use the same fabric on both sides)
- 1 1/3 yards of batting (the thicker the fluffier, not necessary, but nice)
- 1" wide elastic, 1 3/4 yards of it
- 1 package of matching double folded bias tape
OPTIONAL - if you want to have your own straps, instead of using the ones on the shopping cart - then:
- 1 yard of seat belt strapping
- 1 plastic locking seat belt connector
Instructions:
- lay your two pieces of fabric, right sides together and the batting and pin.
- stitch around the entire outer edge of the fabric (not the leg/belt holes - just the 4 outside edges of the cover).
I try to use only about a 1/4 - 1/2" seam around the outer edge so that you aren't taking up too much of the fabric. Stitch a solid
seam all the way around the outer edge of the cover and stop stitching about 6" before the starting point so that you end up
with a hole that you will use to turn the cover right side out.
- Turn the cover right side out.Top stitch around the VERY outer edge of the cover leaving the same 6" "hole" the way around to give the cover some added strength and a neat appearance.
- Now, you will stitch another seam around the outer edge, but not on the very edge, this seam will be 2" in from the outer edge of the cover. This seam will be a casing for the elastic around the outer edge. Make this seam 2" in from the outer edge all the way around the cover. You do not need to account for the "hole". (Now, when you look at your fabric, you will see one seam going all the way around the very outer edge, with an 8” section where you left an opening. Then, you will see another seam 2” further in from the first seam. This seam goes all the way around, without an opening. It starts and stops at the same place, without any gap.
7. At this point, you will want to finish your leg and seat belt holes. You can use the seam tape, which makes a nice, clean
appearance or you can use a serger or even a tight zig zag stitch close to the edge of the fabric. Whatever you chose to use is
up to you and depends on the look you want. What I do is mark with a fabric marker where the leg and seat belt holes should go, and then do an initial stitching around where I will be cutting, then I cut just inside - this helps keep it all together a little easier than just pinning (which I used to do).
- after cutting out the holes I then attach the bias tape around the leg hole cuts I made and the ones for the seat belt.
8. Now is time for the elastic. It is the hardest to do using a safety pin (your hands will get tired and it will take a while, but it can be done). What I have been using is one of those cheap curtain rods - I take the plastic cap of the end and push the elastic in a bit and then recap, and push through. If you have real tools for it, have at it. .. just get it through
Whichever way you use, once you have the elastic through
the casing and have both ends of the elastic back at the 8“opening, you will need to stitch the two ends of the elastic together
tightly so that it doesn't come apart. Once that’s done, stitch the 8" hole closed at the top/finish the edge top stitching.
9. Lastly, you need to make the seat belt, if you are making one. Split the seat belt material in half and attach at either side. I've never done this, but have seen that some do.
Double Cart Cover Alternate Instructions: To make the double cart cover, you will do everything exactly as stated in the original pattern, except you will need to make 4 leg holes instead of two and you'll need to make 4 seat belt holes instead of 2. You will need to purchase 2 yards of seat belt strapping, 2 locking clips for the seat belts and extra binding, since one package, most likely, will not cover all 4 leg holes and all 4 seat belt holes. To add the leg holes, you will need to cut one additional leg hole on either side of the original 2 leg holes. Space them 2" apart from the original holes, just as the two original holes are spaced 2" apart. So, you will end up with 9.5" of fabric left from the edge of the outer holes to the edge of the fabric, instead of the 16.5" which is shown in the original pattern. To add the seat belt holes, you will just look at the leg holes as two sets and put one hole above the outer edge of the leg holes of each set. (see the original iagram for placement above the set of leg holes and do this with each of the two sets).
Locking Serger Threads by TinkerbelleMom
Originally posted by TinkerbelleMom on the Dis.
Step one...slide hook under stitches.
______________
Step 2...grab the tail with whatever hook you're using.
_____________________________________________
Step 3...pull tail under stitches and trim as needed.
Step one...slide hook under stitches.______________
Step 2...grab the tail with whatever hook you're using._____________________________________________
Step 3...pull tail under stitches and trim as needed.
Saturday, February 13, 2010
New Background
Seriously, how cute is this background?? I found it at Shabby Blogs
I saw it and loved it, then I saw that it was called "Lydia's Apron" so I knew it was the one for me! LOL!
I saw it and loved it, then I saw that it was called "Lydia's Apron" so I knew it was the one for me! LOL!
Thursday, February 11, 2010
A few things
I have a few things I'm going to need to put on here in the next few days. I got lazy and only put them in the bookmarks. I'll try to get them added here when I have a minute!
Sunday, March 8, 2009
No Armholes Elastic Top Pillowcase Dress
Take the entire width of fabric, cut it to the length you want, subtracting 1/4" from the finished length you would like.
Cut a piece of fabric for the contrasting bottom band 8 1/2" wide.
Fold it length wise, wrong sides together
Sew the contrasting band onto the bottom of the main fabric,
Topstitch the band seam
Sew up the side seam
Fold over the top of the dress 3 1/4" for the casing, press.
Sew 1" from the folded edge,
Stitch another row for 1" from the first to form the elastic casing, leaving a spot open to insert the elastic.
Insert 3/4 inch elastic, adjust to fit the child,
Sew the elastic together
Sew the elastic opening closed
To make the straps, cut four pieces of ribbon about 19" long
Decide where you would like to place the straps and sew them on.
You can then add buttons, ricrac, and other decorations.
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Piping Tutorial by Aimee G
(Originally Posted on the Dis: http://disboards.com/showthread.php?p=30451561#post30451561)
Download as a PDF here: http://www.box.net/shared/c1lij93lv6
A few people asked me about how to sew piping. Today I finished up my DD’s Minnie Mouse Birthday top. I was going to put store bought pink piping on the shirt but then decided I should show everyone how easy it is to make piping. I do have a piping foot but you can use a zipper foot as well. I first cut my two inch strips. (*** I did not do this the correct way. You really should cut your strips on the bias- 45 degree angle.)
Next I gathered my supplies. I have my cording, piping foot and fabric strips. Also, here is a close up of the piping foot. You can see there is a little half circle groove that the piping/cording settles into as you sew.
Place your cording in the center of the fabric strip, close the fabric to make a little taco. My strips are two inches wide. Place the cording (surrounded by fabric) then sew along the edge of the cording. Since the cording sits in the groove it is super easy.
Now your piping has been made. I next trim the extra fabric. I trim the piping so it is about the same size as commercial piping. It is just easier with a little extra fabric.
Now it is time to sew your piping to the bodice. I just line the piping to the edge of the fabric and let the piping foot guide me along.
Here is the end result. Now you can see on the corners why you should cut your fabric along the bias. By doing this the fabric will move and stretch nicely.
I added my straps and hooks to the bodice. Then I pinned my lining fabric to my bodice right sides together. Next I flip the bodice over and sew the lining to the bodice. I like to sew on the back of the bodice because you can use the piping stitching as a guide. Again, I use my piping foot so the piping is just guided through.
Next, I changed back to my regular foot and stitched the sides. I snipped the corners and clipped the curves of the bodice. I turned the bodice right side out and top stitched around the seams.
Here is the finished product!
Download as a PDF here: http://www.box.net/shared/c1lij93lv6
A few people asked me about how to sew piping. Today I finished up my DD’s Minnie Mouse Birthday top. I was going to put store bought pink piping on the shirt but then decided I should show everyone how easy it is to make piping. I do have a piping foot but you can use a zipper foot as well. I first cut my two inch strips. (*** I did not do this the correct way. You really should cut your strips on the bias- 45 degree angle.)
Next I gathered my supplies. I have my cording, piping foot and fabric strips. Also, here is a close up of the piping foot. You can see there is a little half circle groove that the piping/cording settles into as you sew. Place your cording in the center of the fabric strip, close the fabric to make a little taco. My strips are two inches wide. Place the cording (surrounded by fabric) then sew along the edge of the cording. Since the cording sits in the groove it is super easy.Now your piping has been made. I next trim the extra fabric. I trim the piping so it is about the same size as commercial piping. It is just easier with a little extra fabric. Now it is time to sew your piping to the bodice. I just line the piping to the edge of the fabric and let the piping foot guide me along.Here is the end result. Now you can see on the corners why you should cut your fabric along the bias. By doing this the fabric will move and stretch nicely.
I added my straps and hooks to the bodice. Then I pinned my lining fabric to my bodice right sides together. Next I flip the bodice over and sew the lining to the bodice. I like to sew on the back of the bodice because you can use the piping stitching as a guide. Again, I use my piping foot so the piping is just guided through.
Next, I changed back to my regular foot and stitched the sides. I snipped the corners and clipped the curves of the bodice. I turned the bodice right side out and top stitched around the seams.
Here is the finished product! 
(Thanks Aimee!)
Monday, November 3, 2008
Felt Coffee Cozy
Cute Coffee Cozy on this site: http://www.amberdusick.com/woodmouse_loves_crafts/2007/11/tutorial-felt-c.html
Saturday, October 4, 2008
Reversible Super Hero Cape by Jham
I used about a 1/4" seam allowance and left an opening at the bottom big enough for my hand so I could turn it right side out. Then I used a little piece of stitch witchery to close the opening without showing any stitching. When I put the velcro on I just remembered to put one side on one color and the other side on the other color (before I stitched around the edgs) to keep me from messing up.
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