Patchwork Twirl Skirt

Link to the Disboards where Nanci posted directions for her patchwork twirl skirt.
http://www.disboards.com/showpost.php?p=45084895&postcount=1967

Easy Fits into Roll-Up Pants Tutorial

No longer will anyone have to ask "Does anyone have a tutorial for how to make roll-up pants using Carla C's Easy Fit pattern?" only to find out the answer is "No." This might not be the clearest set of directions, but I tried to take pictures every step of the way and made notes of each thing I did. If anyone tries using this tutorial and finds a different way to do something, would you please post about it??? I'd really appreciate it!!!

Easy Fits into Roll-Up Pants Tutorial

1. Cut out pants using next size up pattern pieces (to allow for extra room for French seams). I'm using a size 7 for my son who has a 27" out seam and a 24" waist.

2. Cut the pants using the basic pattern piece.

3. Cut your solid fabric (the inner "lining" fabric if you will) from the knee to the hem. Ideally you would measure from the waist to the knee and from the knee to the ground. Carla C has a 1.25" waist allowance at the top of the pant pattern piece and a 4.5" hem allowance at the bottom. My son is 11" from waistband to knee and 16" from knee to floor. I cut his inner fabric 16" long and used the pants pattern for shape.

Really this piece of fabric needs to be long enough to roll the pants up as high as you wish. For my boys they like to be able to roll them to knee length. Some might only want Capri length (and wouldn't need as much material). You could see how the cuff pattern piece would work for you. It worked fine to make an AG a cute pair of roll-up capris.
Mine is 16" long.



4. Sew the right sides of the two pieces together at the bottom of the pants pieces. (Just like Carla C. directs for sewing on a cuff)



5. Iron seam towards main fabric




6. Pin pants pieces wrong sides together. I'm using French seams, remember? Sew center crotch using a 1/4" seam allowance.





7. Flip pants so that right sides are together. Iron seam so you have a nice crisp fold.



8. Sew center crotch again making sure to catch your seam inside. 3/8" should be good. Be sure to go back and sew over the crotch with a second reinforcing stitch! Stitch up about an inch from the bottom of the seam on both sides.

9. Turn pants right side out so that the two sides are folded in half and the crotch seams are together. Match up the crotch seams and pin legs. Be sure to have your lining piece still hanging down outside the pant leg. Sew inseam using 1/4" seam allowance. Be sure to sew back and forth at your start and stop to hold stitch in place!



10. Remove pins and turn pants inside out. Put right sides together. Iron seams and then sew again using 3/8" seam allowance. The pants seem REALLY long right now, huh?

11. Turn right side out again and iron open those seam again!



12. Turn lining inside the pants leg now. Your main fabric should turn inside just a little (this way when worn as full length pants the inner fabric doesn't show at the bottom).





13. Hem pants. I use a double needle because I like how it looks more finished. I use an inch seam allowance here. If you are using a double needle make sure you sew on the right side of your fabric!!!!



14. Sew your waistband according to CarlaC's directions.

15. Now - you need 4 tabs. I made mine 2"x10". I cut 8 strips and sewed them together using 1/4" seam. Be sure to leave an opening at one end for turning! Turn and tuck the little bit of raw edge in and iron and then top stitch all the way around (again 1/4").





16. Try the pants on your LO. Roll up one pant leg to where you'll want it to be when the tabs are in use. Stick a pin in the edge and carefully remove from child. Mine ended up being at 14" up from the hem.



17. Turn pants inside out and press flat so that your inseams match up (inner and outer fabrics). Pin your tabs one inch above your measurement (so mine is pinned at 15"). Pin one tab on the inseam and one where the out seam would be.



18. Sew tabs on using either a double needle or two rows of stitching. Be sure you aren't sewing the pant leg closed!!! Also be sure you're catching both the inner and outer fabrics!!!

19. Roll them up and pin the tabs up and around to the stitching on the outside of the pant legs!!! Admire your work! You're almost done!




20. Here's where you have to decide what type of fasteners you want . . . Buttons or snaps. Sew buttons to stitching on outside of pant legs. Button holes go on the tabs. If you choose snaps I'd put the male half on the pant leg and the female half on the tab.



21. You are done! Take a picture of the fabulousness you created!

__________________
Marianne

Jeanne's (jham)Belt Loop Skirt Tute

Cut out your yoke piece and skirt pieces. Cut out 4 strips of fabric slightly longer than your yoke X 1 ½”

For example if your yoke piece is 5”x30” then cut 4 strips about 5 ½”x 1 ½”.
Fold your belt loops lengthwise and stitch into a tube (1/4” seam allowance). Insert a very thin ribbon inside (I do this before I stitch up the side) and stitch across the top of the loop to secure ribbon. Pull on the loose end of the ribbon to turn the tubes right side out and then cut ribbon off.
Press belt loops.
Press your yoke piece to mark 4 lines for belt loop placement . Baste (1/8”) the top of each belt loop to the top of the yoke at the marking creases you pressed. Baste the bottom of each belt loop to the bottom of the yoke making sure it lines up with the crease. Serge the top edge and press down casing for elastic. Use a fabric marking pen and mark where you want the openings in your belt loops (mark a line across the top of the opening and a line across the bottom). Make sure to take into account your seam allowance for attaching the skirt on the bottom. I make the openings a little wider than whatever ribbon I’m using for the belt and I place them low-ish on the yoke, not centered.Unfold casing and stitch each belt loop from the top edge of the yoke to the line you marked. Turn and stitch across belt loop and stitch back up to the top edge of the yoke. Do the same for the bottom edge. After stitching down all belt loops, leaving only the opening wide enough for your ribbon, stitch up the seam in the yoke and stitch casing for elastic.

Thanks for sharing this tutorial with us Jeanne!

Tiana Dress from Simply Sweet Pattern by jas0202

http://www.disboards.com/showpost.php?p=35980490&postcount=1011

By Jas0202:
For the Tiana dress, I used the simply sweet pattern with the scrunched elastic straps. I used the yellow fabric for the front bodice and the skirt, and then the matching green for the back bodice. To make the leafy things on the bodice, I laid the green fabric on top of the bodice. I cut the bottom and the arm hole to match the bodice so it could be sewn in together with the bodice pieces. I free-handed the arch of the leaves across the middle so that there would be a little yellow showing through, but that they would partially overlap. I sewed the arch and the top point of the leafy bodice pieces then turned right side out. Then placed them inside the bodice pieces and assembled the bodice as she describes...armholes first, then scrunched straps (while moving the leaf points out of the way), turn right side out, side seams.

For the skirt, I cut the yellow as she describes in the pattern directions. For the leaves, I cut squares of fabric that were one inch shorter than the LENGTH of the skirt. So, my skirt pieces were 9x15, so I made 8x8 squares. I made 12 of them, for a total of six leaves. I made a pattern to round the bottom edges to form the leaf points on each. Sewed the leaves together, turned them right side out, pressed. They were too thick to use basting stitches, so I had to gather it manually to attach to the bodice. Then zig zagged it to set the gathers. Gathered the yellow skirt, attached to the bodice and sewed through all layers.

For the flower, I used THIS tutorial...
http://sewritzytitzy.blogspot.com/2008/11/from-annas-gardenfabric-flower-tutorial.html


Teresa again.
I used this tutorial to sew up the dress the other day, and this is how it turned out:
I only used one layer for the leaves, and serged around them with gold threads. For the petals on the bodice, I sewed the petal edges onto the bodice instead of leaving them loose. When I was done, I sewed the tips of the petals onto the straps, because I was afraid they would flop over. I think if I do it again, I will try to shape the white middle part of the bodice. But, I was pretty happy with the way it turned out anyway, so I'm not sure I will bother!

How to use PED Basic

Are you running Windows Vista or Windows 7? If you are, you are not suppose to install the CD software on your computer, you need to download it from the Brother site.

Make sure your reader is plugged in and you have a card in the slot.

Can you open up the PED Basic software from your Program Menu (or if it's like mine, it installed a shortcut on my toolbar, I click that)?

If you already have the PES files on your computer and you can open the PED software, click on the little file folder at the top of the window that opens up.

Click on the folder where you have your embroidery designs, click "Ok"

They should now show up on the left side of your screen. If they don't, make sure your files are in PES format and that they are all unzipped.

Once they are showing up, click on the one(s) you want to put on your card, then hit the arrow button in the middle of the screen.

The design will now show up on the right side of the screen.

This will transfer your designs to your card. It will warn you that it will overwrite all existing designs on the card, (like when you erase the pictures from the memory card on your camera). click ok, or continue or whatever it is.

It will tell you to wait a minute, then it will pop up that the transfer is complete.

Take the card out of the reader and put it in your machine.

I only have a Brother 270D, but on my machine, when the card is in and the embroidery unit is on, there is a little symbol that looks kind of like the memory card, I click that and it will show all my designs that are on my card.

Click the one you want to stitch, and you should be good to go.

When you have all the designs on the right side you want, click the arrow thingy on the bottom of the right side of the screen.

Pick-up Pleats

http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?p=3536

I had asked on the Dis if anyone could help me figure out how to do these little pick up pleats. I was answered by FairyGoodmother:

Teresa, I think you're on the right track with the Precious Dress, and of course, Carla's sash. As for the "pick-ups" in the skirt, figure that you'll "pinch" about 1.5" per pickup, so however many rows of pickups you want, multiply that by 1.5 to figure your length. Place your pickups kinda in a pattern, like this:
.....X..........X

X..........X..........X

.....X..........X

As long as you have the same measurement between them, you'll be fine. Does that make sense?

The pickups are just that...you pick up the fabric, pinch it, then hand stitch it to hold in place. Oftentimes they're then covered up with roses, buttons, jewels.

I then asked her if the pleats should be made on the inside of the dress:

no - you pinch it on the outside and stitch it.

You actually COULD do it from the inside but the look is a bit different.
Play with it; see what look you prefer.

Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to try this out on the dress I was making. I plan on trying it someday though! If you've tried it, send me a picture and I'll add it to this post.

Shopping Cart Cover by Adi12982

This was first posted on the Dis by Adi12982
Click on the picture to see the whole thing

What you need:

- Two different fabrics each 1 1/3 yards each (or a total of 2 and 2/3 yards if you want to use the same fabric on both sides)
- 1 1/3 yards of batting (the thicker the fluffier, not necessary, but nice)
- 1" wide elastic, 1 3/4 yards of it
- 1 package of matching double folded bias tape

OPTIONAL - if you want to have your own straps, instead of using the ones on the shopping cart - then:
- 1 yard of seat belt strapping
- 1 plastic locking seat belt connector


Instructions:

- lay your two pieces of fabric, right sides together and the batting and pin.
- stitch around the entire outer edge of the fabric (not the leg/belt holes - just the 4 outside edges of the cover).
I try to use only about a 1/4 - 1/2" seam around the outer edge so that you aren't taking up too much of the fabric. Stitch a solid
seam all the way around the outer edge of the cover and stop stitching about 6" before the starting point so that you end up
with a hole that you will use to turn the cover right side out.
- Turn the cover right side out.Top stitch around the VERY outer edge of the cover leaving the same 6" "hole" the way around to give the cover some added strength and a neat appearance.
- Now, you will stitch another seam around the outer edge, but not on the very edge, this seam will be 2" in from the outer edge of the cover. This seam will be a casing for the elastic around the outer edge. Make this seam 2" in from the outer edge all the way around the cover. You do not need to account for the "hole". (Now, when you look at your fabric, you will see one seam going all the way around the very outer edge, with an 8” section where you left an opening. Then, you will see another seam 2” further in from the first seam. This seam goes all the way around, without an opening. It starts and stops at the same place, without any gap.
7. At this point, you will want to finish your leg and seat belt holes. You can use the seam tape, which makes a nice, clean
appearance or you can use a serger or even a tight zig zag stitch close to the edge of the fabric. Whatever you chose to use is
up to you and depends on the look you want. What I do is mark with a fabric marker where the leg and seat belt holes should go, and then do an initial stitching around where I will be cutting, then I cut just inside - this helps keep it all together a little easier than just pinning (which I used to do).
- after cutting out the holes I then attach the bias tape around the leg hole cuts I made and the ones for the seat belt.
8. Now is time for the elastic. It is the hardest to do using a safety pin (your hands will get tired and it will take a while, but it can be done). What I have been using is one of those cheap curtain rods - I take the plastic cap of the end and push the elastic in a bit and then recap, and push through. If you have real tools for it, have at it. .. just get it through

Whichever way you use, once you have the elastic through
the casing and have both ends of the elastic back at the 8“opening, you will need to stitch the two ends of the elastic together
tightly so that it doesn't come apart. Once that’s done, stitch the 8" hole closed at the top/finish the edge top stitching.

9. Lastly, you need to make the seat belt, if you are making one. Split the seat belt material in half and attach at either side. I've never done this, but have seen that some do.

Double Cart Cover Alternate Instructions: To make the double cart cover, you will do everything exactly as stated in the original pattern, except you will need to make 4 leg holes instead of two and you'll need to make 4 seat belt holes instead of 2. You will need to purchase 2 yards of seat belt strapping, 2 locking clips for the seat belts and extra binding, since one package, most likely, will not cover all 4 leg holes and all 4 seat belt holes. To add the leg holes, you will need to cut one additional leg hole on either side of the original 2 leg holes. Space them 2" apart from the original holes, just as the two original holes are spaced 2" apart. So, you will end up with 9.5" of fabric left from the edge of the outer holes to the edge of the fabric, instead of the 16.5" which is shown in the original pattern. To add the seat belt holes, you will just look at the leg holes as two sets and put one hole above the outer edge of the leg holes of each set. (see the original iagram for placement above the set of leg holes and do this with each of the two sets).

Locking Serger Threads by TinkerbelleMom

Originally posted by TinkerbelleMom on the Dis.

Step one...slide hook under stitches.
______________
Step 2...grab the tail with whatever hook you're using.
_____________________________________________


Step 3...pull tail under stitches and trim as needed.

No Armholes Elastic Top Pillowcase Dress

Take the entire width of fabric, cut it to the length you want, subtracting 1/4" from the finished length you would like.
Cut a piece of fabric for the contrasting bottom band 8 1/2" wide.
Fold it length wise, wrong sides together
Sew the contrasting band onto the bottom of the main fabric,
Topstitch the band seam
Sew up the side seam
Fold over the top of the dress 3 1/4" for the casing, press.
Sew 1" from the folded edge,
Stitch another row for 1" from the first to form the elastic casing, leaving a spot open to insert the elastic.
Insert 3/4 inch elastic, adjust to fit the child,
Sew the elastic together
Sew the elastic opening closed
To make the straps, cut four pieces of ribbon about 19" long
Decide where you would like to place the straps and sew them on.
You can then add buttons, ricrac, and other decorations.

Piping Tutorial by Aimee G

(Originally Posted on the Dis: http://disboards.com/showthread.php?p=30451561#post30451561)

Download as a PDF here: http://www.box.net/shared/c1lij93lv6

A few people asked me about how to sew piping. Today I finished up my DD’s Minnie Mouse Birthday top. I was going to put store bought pink piping on the shirt but then decided I should show everyone how easy it is to make piping. I do have a piping foot but you can use a zipper foot as well. I first cut my two inch strips. (*** I did not do this the correct way. You really should cut your strips on the bias- 45 degree angle.)

Next I gathered my supplies. I have my cording, piping foot and fabric strips. Also, here is a close up of the piping foot. You can see there is a little half circle groove that the piping/cording settles into as you sew.
Place your cording in the center of the fabric strip, close the fabric to make a little taco. My strips are two inches wide. Place the cording (surrounded by fabric) then sew along the edge of the cording. Since the cording sits in the groove it is super easy.

Now your piping has been made. I next trim the extra fabric. I trim the piping so it is about the same size as commercial piping. It is just easier with a little extra fabric.

Now it is time to sew your piping to the bodice. I just line the piping to the edge of the fabric and let the piping foot guide me along.

Here is the end result. Now you can see on the corners why you should cut your fabric along the bias. By doing this the fabric will move and stretch nicely.

I added my straps and hooks to the bodice. Then I pinned my lining fabric to my bodice right sides together. Next I flip the bodice over and sew the lining to the bodice. I like to sew on the back of the bodice because you can use the piping stitching as a guide. Again, I use my piping foot so the piping is just guided through.

Next, I changed back to my regular foot and stitched the sides. I snipped the corners and clipped the curves of the bodice. I turned the bodice right side out and top stitched around the seams.

Here is the finished product!

(Thanks Aimee!)

Felt Coffee Cozy

Cute Coffee Cozy on this site: http://www.amberdusick.com/woodmouse_loves_crafts/2007/11/tutorial-felt-c.html

Reversible Super Hero Cape by Jham

I used about a 1/4" seam allowance and left an opening at the bottom big enough for my hand so I could turn it right side out. Then I used a little piece of stitch witchery to close the opening without showing any stitching. When I put the velcro on I just remembered to put one side on one color and the other side on the other color (before I stitched around the edgs) to keep me from messing up.

How to Tie a Perfect Bow

How to tie a proper bow (with fully lined ties)

1.)Facing dress, take each tie in opposite hand- left tie in right hand, etc

cross the left tie over the right tie

2.)wrap it under right tie and pull up and to the right

3.)gently, but firmly take right tie (that is now on the left) and form "bent bunny ear"

4.)take left tie (dangling over on right side) and pull down and to left to wrap around bunny ear,

5.)as you come up behind bunny ear pull thru hole and to to the right-

adjust and tighten.
6.)So the right tie ends up at the left side of bow and left tie becomes right side of bow.

Easy Gathers by candicenicole19

If you want a nice even gather and you are not going for a SUPER twirl then what i do is crank up the tension all the way (Mine is 9) and the stitch length (Mine goes to 5) and slow down the machine to the slowest speed and you will have an awesome even gather! Works great for twirl skirts and jumper dresses! lol, It is my perferred method! Here is the only close up I can find of this method. it is a ruffle at the bottom of a pair of pants but you can see it gathers Nice at least!

Hello Kitty Button Shirt by Mytwotinks

A couple of people have asked how I attached the buttons on this top so here are my very simple instructions!1.) I traced the shape of her head and marked the eyes, nose and center of the bow onto the shirt.2.) I used a teeny tiny thread of glue to attach the buttons. I started with the bow and then did the little bit of ear that shows behind that and then the rest of the head and the eyes and nose.3.) When the glue was dryish I used embroidery floss and attached the buttons.Super easy and fast! I think the whole thing took less than an hour.

Patchwork Twirl by candicenicole19

What I do is use 6X6 squares (My dd is a size 2T so manybe smaller for your DD) I start with the top layer and usE 6 squares for the waistband, put to the sideThen I use 12 for the next row and 24 for the row after that.I fold the top layer to make a casing for my elastic and stitch into place. Then I gather the other rows using a basting stitch and pin the first l;ayer to the top of the second and sew, then serge and top stitch.I repeat with the second layer by attaching the 3rd layer to the top of the bottom of the second layer, sew, serge, topstitch add a ruffle at the bottom, add the elastic sew the casing closed and you are finished if you need any tips, PM me and I will help you! Hope it helps some! lol

The Bestest Applique Tutorial EVER! (By Heathersue, my baby sister)

To Download the E-book of this tutorial, please click the link below:

http://www.box.net/shared/7fsj6dvprq

I’m by no means an applique expert, but this is the way I do appliqués. I hope this tutorial will help any beginners out there that are confused by how this whole process works!

Finding and preparing an image to applique:

First, you need to choose a picture that you want to use for your applique. There is no need to purchase an “appliquepattern”. I like to search google images or photobucket to find the picture I’m looking for. If you find a picture youlike, just save it to your computer. Next, you can resize it with photo editing software to the size you’d like. You can also use images from children’s books, coloring books, etc… You can either trace these images, or use your scanner to put them onto your computer and then print them. For this particular project, I’m going to use an image that is on a piece of fabric (scanned the fabric, then enlarged the part I wanted in Corel Paint Shop).

Once you have the picture you want to use, print it out.

If you don’t want the picture to be reversed when you applique it onto the shirt, trace around the lines that you want to use on your applique with a permanent or some kind of dark marker that will show through the paper. When you’re finished tracing the lines you want to use, flip the paper over and you’ll have the lines you want to use, without all the extra details that you don’t. You can go over the lines again if they are too light.

If you don’t mind the picture getting reversed onto your finished garment, go ahead and just trace the lines on the right side of the picture with a dark marker and use the right side for the following steps. Cutting your applique pieces: Next, you’ll need to get out your heat ‘n bond LITE paper (do not use ultra, only Lite). Put the paper over the side of the image you have determined in the last step.

Be sure that you place the smooth side of the heat ‘n bond up. You’ll need to decide which parts of the picture you want to do in different fabrics. After you have decided this, do each piece of the drawing that will be in a different fabric, on a separate part of the heat ‘n bond. You don’t want to just trace the picture exactly as it is, or you will not have room for overlapping.
Next, you’ll need to decide in which order you want to layer each piece. For this example, I wanted the sundae glass and the top scoop to be in the bottom layer, the straw to be in the middle layer and the middle scoop to be the very top layer. The bottom and middle layers will have to have an extra “seam allowance” so we can over lap other layers over them. So, I drew about ¼ inch extra seam allowance on each surface that will be overlapped with another piece.

In this instance, that was the top of the sundae glass, the bottom of the top scoop, and the bottom of the straw. The top layer will not have any extra edge on it because it will not be going underneath any other piece. Now, cut the pieces of heat ‘n bond out, leaving plenty of extra room around the pictures you have traced (don’t cut right on the lines!).

Next, get the different fabrics you want to use for the applique and iron all of the wrinkles out of them. After that, set your iron for the setting as directed on the heat ‘n bond (about a 2 on my iron). Place the cut pieces of the heat ‘n bond on the WRONG side of the fabric and iron them on . Now, take your scissors and cut out the fabric along the lines you have traced onto the heat ’n bond. It’s easier to cut nice straight lines since you left the extra heat ‘n bond around the edges.


Piecing together your applique and fusing it to the fabric:
Next, you will assemble the applique onto your Teflon pressing sheet. I bought the one shown below at JoAnn for $7.99. The pressing sheet is the large plastic sheet under the bag in the photo.


Put the picture you are working with underneath the pressing sheet (the sheet is see-through).

Peel the paper backing off of the fabric pieces and lay them on the pressing sheet. You can secure each piece in place with the iron as you go (in an up and down motion, don‘t slide the iron around like you do when you‘re smoothing wrinkles). Make sure you start with the bottom layer and work your way up. Overlap the pieces at the “seam allowances”.


When you’re finished with this step, you’ll have a good idea of what your applique will look like. You can move the pieces around until you’re happy with how it looks. Then, give it a final press with iron. Wait until it cools, and then carefully peel the applique off the sheet, trying to keep all the pieces fused together. The really cool part about the Teflon pressing sheet is that the applique will peel right off of it, but the heat ‘n bond will still work when you iron it onto the garment.


Next, prepare the fabric that you’re going to applique on. Iron all of the wrinkles out if it. Stabilizer will help to keep the fabric from puckering around the edges of the applique. I like the Sulky iron on, tear-away, stabilizer. Cut off a piece of stabilizer a little bigger than your applique and then iron it onto the WRONG side of the fabric. Don’t worry about it if the piece seems too big, you will be tearing away the excess when you’re done.

Now, turn the fabric with the attached stabilizer over so you’re working with the right side. Place the applique on the fabric where you want it to go. Make sure you have it centered and that you’ve taken the seam allowances of the finished garment into account. Iron it on, following the directions on the heat ‘n bond.

Sewing it on your garment/fabric:
Now you’re ready to start sewing! The best kind of foot to use for applique is an applique foot like the one pictured below, or something similar. Try to use thread that matches each color you are using in the applique. If you use a different color to outline, it is easier to see the mistakes! Some people use a different color bobbin thread, but I haven’t mastered that yet. My machine always tends to pull the bobbin thread up to the top, so I use matching bobbin thread and top thread. I like working with polyester thread for applique. I don’t recommend metallic threads for applique- they break!! Start with the bottom most layer and work your way up to the top piece. In this example, I could either start with the sundae glass or the top scoop, since they are both in the bottom layer. Begin by anchoring your thread. I have found that the best way to do this is to set your machine on zig-zag, with a setting of 0.2 or 0.3 for the stitch length and 0 for the stitch width. Here’s what it looks like on my Brother CS6000i machine.

With your needle right on the edge of the applique, where you want to begin sewing, sew 3-4 stitches forward and then
*3-4 stitches back to anchor your strings. (see picture at the bottom for backstitch button)

Then, reset your width to approximately 4.0 and leave the stitch length at 0.2 or 0.3. Raise your needle and then make sure it will come down precisely on the outer edge of the applique, when the needle is in the right hand position of the zig-zag stitch. Stitch a few stitches to make sure it’s landing right on the edge. Now, just try to follow the edge of the applique.


Now, what do you do when you come to a corner, or a turn?


This is where it gets tricky. You need to make sure you are turning your fabric the correct direction, with the needle in the correct position. In the above photo, you’ll need to lift the presser foot, with the needle in the down position, on the left hand side of the zig zag. Then turn your fabric to the right. You’ll leave your needle in the right hand position if you’re turning the other way. In the picture below, I went to the end point of where I wanted to stop, stopped with my needle in the down position on the right hand side and then turned my fabric right and continued zig-zagging.


This next photo shows what happens if I would have stopped with the needle in the left hand position and then turned my fabric right. You can see that it doesn‘t make a point on the corner if you leave the needle in the wrong position before turning.:



This same rule applies if you’re going around a curve. Here’s a curve where I stopped the needle in the wrong position before I turned my fabric:


This is something you can’t really learn by reading it. You just have to practice. The correct needle position and turning technique will become second nature with practice. When you’re done going around the first layer, set your stitch width to 0 again and backstitch 3-4 stitches and go forward 3-4 stitches to anchor your thread again. I like to clip my threads at this point. I cut them very close to the garment. If you anchor them as shown, they shouldn’t unravel.

Change your thread to the color of the next layer and go around that.

Continue doing this until you finish the top layer of your applique.


Now, turn the fabric over and rip off the excess stabilizer:
YOU’RE FINISHED!!!! Except for the little task of actually sewing the clothing together, that is!

Miscellaneous tips:
*If you happened to try to iron your stabilizer on the wrong side and it got your iron all gunked up, just get out an old towel and a sheet of fabric softener. Put the fabric softener on top of the towel and run your iron over it a few times. It will generally take the gooey stuff right off. Not that I have ever done that or anything ;o).

*Lots of people will tell you to go slow and take your time when appliquéing. But, I seem to do better looking appliqués, with smoother lines, when I go fast! LOL! Just experiment and see what works best for you.

*If you’re going to applique a face, it’s best to hand-embroider the eyes/nose/mouth. It’s really hard to get a face to look good with machine applique, especially if you’re a beginner. Here’s a link that has videos of the different embroidery stitches. http://www.needlenthread.com/2006/10/video-library-of-hand-embroidery.html I like the whipped back stitch for outlines and the satin stitch for filling in. Here are some examples of hand-embroidered faces:


If the character you’re appliquéing has larger features, like the ones below, it’s a little easier to use the machine and appliqué the faces. I also like to “cheat” by using buttons and such for some of the smaller features, like the turkey’s eye below. Be creative!



*When choosing fabrics for your applique, try to stick with patterned fabric (thanks for that tip, LisaZoe!). It doesn’t fray like a solid fabric will and it adds more texture to your applique. Remember that you can also use the back of the fabric for a different look.

*If you can’t find the right picture to use as a template for your applique, you can capture a picture from a movie. I like to use the program Intervideo WinDVD for this. The program came with my computer. It has a little camera on the menu while you’re watching the movie. You can just click the camera at the spot you wish to take a picture. It will take the picture and you can save it as a file. Then, use it as an applique template. This is how I got the Cinderella picture above.

*For more applique and other sewing tips, check out Teresa joy’s bookmarks: http://www.mybookmarks.com/public/teresajoy/#current

*The backstitch / reverse button usually looks like an arrow pointing backwards, as in #2 of the picture above.