Disboutique

Easy Fits into Roll-Up Pants Tutorial

2011-08-22T10:39:00.003-04:00

http://www.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=2897401923142092359

No longer will anyone have to ask "Does anyone have a tutorial for how to make roll-up pants using Carla C's Easy Fit pattern?" only to find out the answer is "No." This might not be the clearest set of directions, but I tried to take pictures every step of the way and made notes of each thing I did. If anyone tries using this tutorial and finds a different way to do something, would you please post about it??? I'd really appreciate it!!!

Easy Fits into Roll-Up Pants Tutorial

1. Cut out pants using next size up pattern pieces (to allow for extra room for French seams). I'm using a size 7 for my son who has a 27" out seam and a 24" waist.

2. Cut the pants using the basic pattern piece.

3. Cut your solid fabric (the inner "lining" fabric if you will) from the knee to the hem. Ideally you would measure from the waist to the knee and from the knee to the ground. Carla C has a 1.25" waist allowance at the top of the pant pattern piece and a 4.5" hem allowance at the bottom. My son is 11" from waistband to knee and 16" from knee to floor. I cut his inner fabric 16" long and used the pants pattern for shape.

Really this piece of fabric needs to be long enough to roll the pants up as high as you wish. For my boys they like to be able to roll them to knee length. Some might only want Capri length (and wouldn't need as much material). You could see how the cuff pattern piece would work for you. It worked fine to make an AG a cute pair of roll-up capris.
Mine is 16" long.

4. Sew the right sides of the two pieces together at the bottom of the pants pieces. (Just like Carla C. directs for sewing on a cuff)

5. Iron seam towards main fabric

6. Pin pants pieces wrong sides together. I'm using French seams, remember? Sew center crotch using a 1/4" seam allowance.

7. Flip pants so that right sides are together. Iron seam so you have a nice crisp fold.

8. Sew center crotch again making sure to catch your seam inside. 3/8" should be good. Be sure to go back and sew over the crotch with a second reinforcing stitch! Stitch up about an inch from the bottom of the seam on both sides.

9. Turn pants right side out so that the two sides are folded in half and the crotch seams are together. Match up the crotch seams and pin legs. Be sure to have your lining piece still hanging down outside the pant leg. Sew inseam using 1/4" seam allowance. Be sure to sew back and forth at your start and stop to hold stitch in place!

10. Remove pins and turn pants inside out. Put right sides together. Iron seams and then sew again using 3/8" seam allowance. The pants seem REALLY long right now, huh?

11. Turn right side out again and iron open those seam again!

12. Turn lining inside the pants leg now. Your main fabric should turn inside just a little (this way when worn as full length pants the inner fabric doesn't show at the bottom).

13. Hem pants. I use a double needle because I like how it looks more finished. I use an inch seam allowance here. If you are using a double needle make sure you sew on the right side of your fabric!!!!

14. Sew your waistband according to CarlaC's directions.

15. Now - you need 4 tabs. I made mine 2"x10". I cut 8 strips and sewed them together using 1/4" seam. Be sure to leave an opening at one end for turning! Turn and tuck the little bit of raw edge in and iron and then top stitch all the way around (again 1/4").

16. Try the pants on your LO. Roll up one pant leg to where you'll want it to be when the tabs are in use. Stick a pin in the edge and carefully remove from child. Mine ended up being at 14" up from the hem.

17. Turn pants inside out and press flat so that your inseams match up (inner and outer fabrics). Pin your tabs one inch above your measurement (so mine is pinned at 15"). Pin one tab on the inseam and one where the out seam would be.

18. Sew tabs on using either a double needle or two rows of stitching. Be sure you aren't sewing the pant leg closed!!! Also be sure you're catching both the inner and outer fabrics!!!

19. Roll them up and pin the tabs up and around to the stitching on the outside of the pant legs!!! Admire your work! You're almost done!

20. Here's where you have to decide what type of fasteners you want . . . Buttons or snaps. Sew buttons to stitching on outside of pant legs. Button holes go on the tabs. If you choose snaps I'd put the male half on the pant leg and the female half on the tab.

21. You are done! Take a picture of the fabulousness you created!

__________________
Marianne

Embroidering a T-shirt on a machine by AimeeG

2011-03-18T20:39:00.002-04:00

Posted by AimeeG http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?p=40347630#post40347630

First I gathered all of my supplies

Then I copied the design file to a thumb drive. Some designers also include a stitch map with the design file. It's a great tool to have. It tells you step by step what colors to use. My machine does not have a fancy screen and sometimes it is very hard to tell what step is what color.

It's essential to use stabilizer. What kind is up to your own preference. I use Sulky Stick Back. I know some say that it gums up the needle but . . . you really should change your needle after each project anyway. It's really the only stabilizer I use for machine or hand applique.

There are several ways to hoop your shirt but this is what seems to work for me. I cut right the side seam of the shirt. Then I lay the shirt flat with the hoop resting on top. I use the the vertical and horizontal ticks to help me line up my shirt. Using a fabric pen I put a dot by each mark and a dot in the center. Then I hoop the shirt.

When I stick on the stabilizer I make sure that I go right up to the notches on the bracket but not over them.

Now it's time to select the pattern. One day I hope to fancy machine with a color screen but for now it's the screen that reminds me of our Brother Word Processor from 1990.

Before I start a design I hit the adjust button. Here you can do lots of things like flip the design and change the size. I always double check the placement of the design. This cupcake is about 5 x 5 so the design is centered in the hoop. That is great but it is too far down the tee shirt. I use the arrow buttons to adjust where the top of the design is.

The first set of stitches is your placement mark. Here is another time saver tip- My machine only has one thread so I have to change it a lot. As long as it is not black I normally do all the placement and tack down stitches with the first color that will be satin stitched. For the design yellow is the first satin stitch color.

I also use a spray adhesive. I have never been successful without this spray. I know others have but my fabric seems to pucker without it! When it's time to spray my fabric I use this handy dandy box. I turn the fabric upside down and lay it in the base of the box. Spraying in the box contains the excess glue from sticking up the desk or the floor.

The next stitch is the tack down stitch. You have to be very careful to cut
very close to the edge of the stitch without cutting the thread. When I trim the excess fabric I like to pull the fabric slightly. It helps to get a close trim.

Next the cupcake liner fabric was added and the cupcake outline was stitched. Another tip is to cut your jump threads as you go. A jump thread is where the stitching stops and jumps to another part of the design. It keeps the applique neat if you cut these threads after each color. I find this especially true when doing eyes.

And there you have it. . .

Ruffle Socks By 1308Miles

2011-03-17T16:22:00.000-04:00

These were posted by 1309miles on the Dis: http://www.disboards.com/showpost.php?p=40271316&postcount=1097

I used ribbon that is 1.5" in width (but also used 7/8" ribbon...smaller widths tend to flip upward after they are sewn.)

Measure the width of the sock and quadruple it to determine the length of ribbon to use (for example, DDs socks measured 4", so I used 16" of ribbon.)

Find the back of the sock (where the ankle goes) and place a pin there.

Turn the sock inside out and slip it on the free arm of your sewing machine. It should be stretched to about double the width. Be sure that it is stretched enough or else it will be too tight to wear!

Align the edges of the ribbon and the sock.

Pin the ribbon to the sock (begin where you placed the pin at the ankle) wrong side up leaving a 1" length of ribbon hanging.

Zigzag stitch the ribbon to the sock.

Once you have zigzagged around the sock, you should have about 1" on either end hanging freely at the pin you placed at the ankle.

Place those right-sides together and straight stitch those.

Cut the excess and heat seal the edges.

Weighted Blanket by kdzbear

2010-06-28T14:38:00.002-04:00

Originally posted on the Dis: http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?p=36821111#post36821111

Supplies needed:
1-2 yards of fleece fabric
Plastic Pellets

1) Determine the child’s weight. Then for example the child weighs 40 pounds, you would need 5 lbs. of plastic pellets. You take 10% of her body weight and add one pound to determine the amount of plastic pellets to use (You might also want to consult your child's doctor to determine the recommended weight)

2.) For a smaller child you will need one yard of fabric and for a larger child you will need 2 yards of fabric.

3) Fold the material in half length wise. Then use a serger to sew up both sides. Leave the top open. The bottom seam will be the fold.
4) Then with regular or sewing chalk make 4 or 5 long vertical rows down the length of the blanket. Then go back and make 4-5" horizontal rows. These will be your pockets.
In a one yard blanket your pockets will be 4”x4” square pockets
In a two yard blanket your pockets will be 7”x5” and more rectangular pockets

5) You will need to purchase plastic pellets from a hobby store such as Hobby Lobby. These can be found in the doll and teddy bear making aisle. They normally come in 2 lb. bags.

6) Sew the vertical lengthwise pockets so you can drop the 1/4 cup of pellets down each pocket before sewing across vertically.
7) I put about 1/4 cups of pellets in each pocket and then pin across vertically. Then you will have to sew vertically across to seal these pockets. I would use heavy thread and back stitch at each start and end of each pocket. I did not do this with Tyler's heaviest blanket and I have had to go back and fix threads that have pulled out. Just keep repeating as you go up each row until you reach the top. Make sure you pin the pellets below where you are sewing as they will break your needles.

8) The 1 yard / 2 lb. blankets never came apart. Then you fill the next columns of pellets across vertically and sew across. You do this until you reach the top.
9) The blanket will get heavy and hard to maneuver around the sewing machine. Once you sew shut the last pocket go ahead and serge the top seam shut too.

Jeanne's (jham)Belt Loop Skirt Tute

2010-06-21T18:24:00.002-04:00

Cut out your yoke piece and skirt pieces. Cut out 4 strips of fabric slightly longer than your yoke X 1 ½”

For example if your yoke piece is 5”x30” then cut 4 strips about 5 ½”x 1 ½”.
Fold your belt loops lengthwise and stitch into a tube (1/4” seam allowance). Insert a very thin ribbon inside (I do this before I stitch up the side) and stitch across the top of the loop to secure ribbon. Pull on the loose end of the ribbon to turn the tubes right side out and then cut ribbon off.
Press belt loops.
Press your yoke piece to mark 4 lines for belt loop placement . Baste (1/8”) the top of each belt loop to the top of the yoke at the marking creases you pressed. Baste the bottom of each belt loop to the bottom of the yoke making sure it lines up with the crease. Serge the top edge and press down casing for elastic. Use a fabric marking pen and mark where you want the openings in your belt loops (mark a line across the top of the opening and a line across the bottom). Make sure to take into account your seam allowance for attaching the skirt on the bottom. I make the openings a little wider than whatever ribbon I’m using for the belt and I place them low-ish on the yoke, not centered.Unfold casing and stitch each belt loop from the top edge of the yoke to the line you marked. Turn and stitch across belt loop and stitch back up to the top edge of the yoke. Do the same for the bottom edge. After stitching down all belt loops, leaving only the opening wide enough for your ribbon, stitch up the seam in the yoke and stitch casing for elastic.

Thanks for sharing this tutorial with us Jeanne!

Tiana Dress from Simply Sweet Pattern by jas0202

2010-04-15T16:16:00.005-04:00

http://www.disboards.com/showpost.php?p=35980490&postcount=1011

By Jas0202:
For the Tiana dress, I used the simply sweet pattern with the scrunched elastic straps. I used the yellow fabric for the front bodice and the skirt, and then the matching green for the back bodice. To make the leafy things on the bodice, I laid the green fabric on top of the bodice. I cut the bottom and the arm hole to match the bodice so it could be sewn in together with the bodice pieces. I free-handed the arch of the leaves across the middle so that there would be a little yellow showing through, but that they would partially overlap. I sewed the arch and the top point of the leafy bodice pieces then turned right side out. Then placed them inside the bodice pieces and assembled the bodice as she describes...armholes first, then scrunched straps (while moving the leaf points out of the way), turn right side out, side seams.

For the skirt, I cut the yellow as she describes in the pattern directions. For the leaves, I cut squares of fabric that were one inch shorter than the LENGTH of the skirt. So, my skirt pieces were 9x15, so I made 8x8 squares. I made 12 of them, for a total of six leaves. I made a pattern to round the bottom edges to form the leaf points on each. Sewed the leaves together, turned them right side out, pressed. They were too thick to use basting stitches, so I had to gather it manually to attach to the bodice. Then zig zagged it to set the gathers. Gathered the yellow skirt, attached to the bodice and sewed through all layers.

For the flower, I used THIS tutorial...
http://sewritzytitzy.blogspot.com/2008/11/from-annas-gardenfabric-flower-tutorial.html

Teresa again.
I used this tutorial to sew up the dress the other day, and this is how it turned out:
I only used one layer for the leaves, and serged around them with gold threads. For the petals on the bodice, I sewed the petal edges onto the bodice instead of leaving them loose. When I was done, I sewed the tips of the petals onto the straps, because I was afraid they would flop over. I think if I do it again, I will try to shape the white middle part of the bodice. But, I was pretty happy with the way it turned out anyway, so I'm not sure I will bother!

How to use PED Basic

2010-03-11T13:02:00.001-05:00

Are you running Windows Vista or Windows 7? If you are, you are not suppose to install the CD software on your computer, you need to download it from the Brother site.

Make sure your reader is plugged in and you have a card in the slot.

Can you open up the PED Basic software from your Program Menu (or if it's like mine, it installed a shortcut on my toolbar, I click that)?

If you already have the PES files on your computer and you can open the PED software, click on the little file folder at the top of the window that opens up.

Click on the folder where you have your embroidery designs, click "Ok"

They should now show up on the left side of your screen. If they don't, make sure your files are in PES format and that they are all unzipped.

Once they are showing up, click on the one(s) you want to put on your card, then hit the arrow button in the middle of the screen.

The design will now show up on the right side of the screen.

This will transfer your designs to your card. It will warn you that it will overwrite all existing designs on the card, (like when you erase the pictures from the memory card on your camera). click ok, or continue or whatever it is.

It will tell you to wait a minute, then it will pop up that the transfer is complete.

Take the card out of the reader and put it in your machine.

I only have a Brother 270D, but on my machine, when the card is in and the embroidery unit is on, there is a little symbol that looks kind of like the memory card, I click that and it will show all my designs that are on my card.

Click the one you want to stitch, and you should be good to go.

When you have all the designs on the right side you want, click the arrow thingy on the bottom of the right side of the screen.

Pick-up Pleats

2010-02-15T23:50:00.004-05:00

http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?p=3536

I had asked on the Dis if anyone could help me figure out how to do these little pick up pleats. I was answered by FairyGoodmother:

Teresa, I think you're on the right track with the Precious Dress, and of course, Carla's sash. As for the "pick-ups" in the skirt, figure that you'll "pinch" about 1.5" per pickup, so however many rows of pickups you want, multiply that by 1.5 to figure your length. Place your pickups kinda in a pattern, like this:
.....X..........X

X..........X..........X

.....X..........X

As long as you have the same measurement between them, you'll be fine. Does that make sense?

The pickups are just that...you pick up the fabric, pinch it, then hand stitch it to hold in place. Oftentimes they're then covered up with roses, buttons, jewels.

I then asked her if the pleats should be made on the inside of the dress:

no - you pinch it on the outside and stitch it.

You actually COULD do it from the inside but the look is a bit different.
Play with it; see what look you prefer.

Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to try this out on the dress I was making. I plan on trying it someday though! If you've tried it, send me a picture and I'll add it to this post.

Shopping Cart Cover by Adi12982

2010-02-15T23:45:00.003-05:00

This was first posted on the Dis by Adi12982
Click on the picture to see the whole thing

What you need:

- Two different fabrics each 1 1/3 yards each (or a total of 2 and 2/3 yards if you want to use the same fabric on both sides)
- 1 1/3 yards of batting (the thicker the fluffier, not necessary, but nice)
- 1" wide elastic, 1 3/4 yards of it
- 1 package of matching double folded bias tape

OPTIONAL - if you want to have your own straps, instead of using the ones on the shopping cart - then:
- 1 yard of seat belt strapping
- 1 plastic locking seat belt connector

Instructions:

- lay your two pieces of fabric, right sides together and the batting and pin.
- stitch around the entire outer edge of the fabric (not the leg/belt holes - just the 4 outside edges of the cover).
I try to use only about a 1/4 - 1/2" seam around the outer edge so that you aren't taking up too much of the fabric. Stitch a solid
seam all the way around the outer edge of the cover and stop stitching about 6" before the starting point so that you end up
with a hole that you will use to turn the cover right side out.
- Turn the cover right side out.Top stitch around the VERY outer edge of the cover leaving the same 6" "hole" the way around to give the cover some added strength and a neat appearance.
- Now, you will stitch another seam around the outer edge, but not on the very edge, this seam will be 2" in from the outer edge of the cover. This seam will be a casing for the elastic around the outer edge. Make this seam 2" in from the outer edge all the way around the cover. You do not need to account for the "hole". (Now, when you look at your fabric, you will see one seam going all the way around the very outer edge, with an 8” section where you left an opening. Then, you will see another seam 2” further in from the first seam. This seam goes all the way around, without an opening. It starts and stops at the same place, without any gap.
7. At this point, you will want to finish your leg and seat belt holes. You can use the seam tape, which makes a nice, clean
appearance or you can use a serger or even a tight zig zag stitch close to the edge of the fabric. Whatever you chose to use is
up to you and depends on the look you want. What I do is mark with a fabric marker where the leg and seat belt holes should go, and then do an initial stitching around where I will be cutting, then I cut just inside - this helps keep it all together a little easier than just pinning (which I used to do).
- after cutting out the holes I then attach the bias tape around the leg hole cuts I made and the ones for the seat belt.
8. Now is time for the elastic. It is the hardest to do using a safety pin (your hands will get tired and it will take a while, but it can be done). What I have been using is one of those cheap curtain rods - I take the plastic cap of the end and push the elastic in a bit and then recap, and push through. If you have real tools for it, have at it. .. just get it through

Whichever way you use, once you have the elastic through
the casing and have both ends of the elastic back at the 8“opening, you will need to stitch the two ends of the elastic together
tightly so that it doesn't come apart. Once that’s done, stitch the 8" hole closed at the top/finish the edge top stitching.

9. Lastly, you need to make the seat belt, if you are making one. Split the seat belt material in half and attach at either side. I've never done this, but have seen that some do.

Double Cart Cover Alternate Instructions: To make the double cart cover, you will do everything exactly as stated in the original pattern, except you will need to make 4 leg holes instead of two and you'll need to make 4 seat belt holes instead of 2. You will need to purchase 2 yards of seat belt strapping, 2 locking clips for the seat belts and extra binding, since one package, most likely, will not cover all 4 leg holes and all 4 seat belt holes. To add the leg holes, you will need to cut one additional leg hole on either side of the original 2 leg holes. Space them 2" apart from the original holes, just as the two original holes are spaced 2" apart. So, you will end up with 9.5" of fabric left from the edge of the outer holes to the edge of the fabric, instead of the 16.5" which is shown in the original pattern. To add the seat belt holes, you will just look at the leg holes as two sets and put one hole above the outer edge of the leg holes of each set. (see the original iagram for placement above the set of leg holes and do this with each of the two sets).

Locking Serger Threads by TinkerbelleMom

2010-02-15T23:38:00.003-05:00

Originally posted by TinkerbelleMom on the Dis.

Step one...slide hook under stitches.
______________
Step 2...grab the tail with whatever hook you're using.
_____________________________________________

Step 3...pull tail under stitches and trim as needed.

New Background

2010-02-13T10:31:00.003-05:00

Seriously, how cute is this background?? I found it at Shabby Blogs
I saw it and loved it, then I saw that it was called "Lydia's Apron" so I knew it was the one for me! LOL!

A few things

2010-02-11T09:46:00.001-05:00

I have a few things I'm going to need to put on here in the next few days. I got lazy and only put them in the bookmarks. I'll try to get them added here when I have a minute!

No Armholes Elastic Top Pillowcase Dress

2009-03-08T17:12:00.005-04:00

Take the entire width of fabric, cut it to the length you want, subtracting 1/4" from the finished length you would like.
Cut a piece of fabric for the contrasting bottom band 8 1/2" wide.
Fold it length wise, wrong sides together
Sew the contrasting band onto the bottom of the main fabric,
Topstitch the band seam
Sew up the side seam
Fold over the top of the dress 3 1/4" for the casing, press.
Sew 1" from the folded edge,
Stitch another row for 1" from the first to form the elastic casing, leaving a spot open to insert the elastic.
Insert 3/4 inch elastic, adjust to fit the child,
Sew the elastic together
Sew the elastic opening closed
To make the straps, cut four pieces of ribbon about 19" long
Decide where you would like to place the straps and sew them on.
You can then add buttons, ricrac, and other decorations.

Piping Tutorial by Aimee G

2009-02-24T22:39:00.008-05:00

(Originally Posted on the Dis: http://disboards.com/showthread.php?p=30451561#post30451561)

Download as a PDF here: http://www.box.net/shared/c1lij93lv6

A few people asked me about how to sew piping. Today I finished up my DD’s Minnie Mouse Birthday top. I was going to put store bought pink piping on the shirt but then decided I should show everyone how easy it is to make piping. I do have a piping foot but you can use a zipper foot as well. I first cut my two inch strips. (*** I did not do this the correct way. You really should cut your strips on the bias- 45 degree angle.)

Next I gathered my supplies. I have my cording, piping foot and fabric strips. Also, here is a close up of the piping foot. You can see there is a little half circle groove that the piping/cording settles into as you sew.
Place your cording in the center of the fabric strip, close the fabric to make a little taco. My strips are two inches wide. Place the cording (surrounded by fabric) then sew along the edge of the cording. Since the cording sits in the groove it is super easy.

Now your piping has been made. I next trim the extra fabric. I trim the piping so it is about the same size as commercial piping. It is just easier with a little extra fabric.

Now it is time to sew your piping to the bodice. I just line the piping to the edge of the fabric and let the piping foot guide me along.

Here is the end result. Now you can see on the corners why you should cut your fabric along the bias. By doing this the fabric will move and stretch nicely.

I added my straps and hooks to the bodice. Then I pinned my lining fabric to my bodice right sides together. Next I flip the bodice over and sew the lining to the bodice. I like to sew on the back of the bodice because you can use the piping stitching as a guide. Again, I use my piping foot so the piping is just guided through.

Next, I changed back to my regular foot and stitched the sides. I snipped the corners and clipped the curves of the bodice. I turned the bodice right side out and top stitched around the seams.

Here is the finished product!

(Thanks Aimee!)

Felt Coffee Cozy

2008-11-03T11:52:00.007-05:00

Cute Coffee Cozy on this site: http://www.amberdusick.com/woodmouse_loves_crafts/2007/11/tutorial-felt-c.html

Reversible Super Hero Cape by Jham

2008-10-04T01:54:00.002-04:00

I used about a 1/4" seam allowance and left an opening at the bottom big enough for my hand so I could turn it right side out. Then I used a little piece of stitch witchery to close the opening without showing any stitching. When I put the velcro on I just remembered to put one side on one color and the other side on the other color (before I stitched around the edgs) to keep me from messing up.

Chart for Sizing DOWN a Pattern by CarlaC

2008-09-10T14:12:00.004-04:00

Origianally posted by LouiesMama (CarlaC ) Thank you Carla!!!
My patternmaking book only goes down to size 3, so I used the size charts
in "Simply the Best Sewing Book" by Simplicity.
Their measurements for each size (chest/waist/hip) in inches are as
follows:
0.5 - 19/19/20 (six months)
1 - 20/19.5/21
2 - 21/20/22
3 - 22/20.5/23

If you are using a commercial pattern, you might want to check the
measurements they use for each size just to make sure they correspond (if the
measurements aren't on the pattern, you can find them in the pattern book or on
the company's website). So here are the numbers I came up with:
Size 3 down to size 2 - scaling set to 95%
Size 3 down to size 1 - scaling set to 91%
Size 3 down to size 0.5 - scaling set to 86%
Size 2 down to size 1 - scaling set to 95%
Size 2 down to size 0.5 - scaling set to 91%
Size 2 down to size 0 - scaling set to 86%
Size 1 down to size 0.5 - scaling set to 95%
Size .5 down to size 0 - scaling set to 90%

I based the newborn size 0 on a chest measurement of 18" (this one is for
you, T ). So it seems like (at least for the tiny sizes) the general rule of
thumb is:
Shrinking 1 size - scaling set to 95%
Shrinking 2 sizes - scaling set to 91%
Shrinking 3 sizes - scaling set to 86%

Percentages for scaling up a pattern! By CarlaC (LouiesMama)

2008-09-08T16:06:00.003-04:00

Origianally posted by CarlaC (LouiesMama)

I was looking at the size charts in my patternmaking textbook, and it seems
like the larger "tween" sizes increase pretty proportionally. I did the math
to
get the differences in the sizes so that the pattern pieces could be
scaled up
on a copy machine.

to go from an 8 to a 10, scale up
103%
to go from an 8 to a 12, scale up 106%
to go from an 8 to a 14, scale
up 110%
to go from a 10 to a 12, scale up 103%
to go from a 10 to a 14,
scale up 106%
to go from a 10 to a 16, scale up 110%

You'll want
to go to a place like Kinko's that has nice machines so you can
adjust the
scale to whatever you want, and also so you can select a larger paper
size
(I think you can go up to 11X17 in most machines).I haven't tried this
personally (I just do the scaling in my drawing program), but these are the
percentages I would use. This should work for most patterns (not just mine)
that
are free-fitting like the peasant top/dress. With more fitted styles,
keep in
mind that as girls develop, the hip/waist ratio changes, and also
the bustline
changes. So for something like the a-line, scaling up might not
work. Boys are
easy - they stay pretty much the same until they either get
big muscles or a
beer belly !

Adding Pictures to the Group Photobucket account

2008-05-27T22:20:00.010-04:00

You will need your own personal Photobucket account to add pictures to the Group Album.

Click on this link found in the first post of our thread and put in the password you will also find there.

If you are not signed into your own personal Photobucket account, do so now.
After you sign in, it should take you back to the our Group Album. If not, just put in the address again.
To the left side of the screen, underneath where it says, "Where's This Album": click on "Add to Favorites".

When you log in to your account the next time, there will be a category called "Favorites" on the left side of your personal page screen, our group show up there. Just click it, and VOILA! you are at the group page! (you may have to put the Group password in again)

OK, so now you are all logged in, time to add some pictures to the Group Album!!!
At the top of the page, you should see this:

Fist, decide where you want to transfer your pictures from. If you already have the pictures in your own personal Photobucket account, you can just transfer them to the group account from there.
Click on the dot that says, "My Album"

A list of the albums in your personal account will appear in the drop down window.

Click on the album name where the pictures you want to transfer are located.

Itybitty little thumbnails will appear in the box:

Click on the "+" next to the picture you want to add to the group album (the pictures will stay in your personal account as well)

When you have clicked on every picture you want to add, click "copy files" and wait for the pictures to transfer, very easy!

To Copy the files from your computer, you would just click on "my computer" a pop up will appear allowing you to chose the pictures from your computer.

To select multiple files, hold down the "CTRL" button on your computer.

When you have selected the pictures, click "open"

The pictures will then be transferred to the group album.

You can also move the pictures from a URL, that's pretty simple, so I won't go into detail.

Now that your pictures are on the Group Album, you will need to tag them.(please, pretty please with sugar on top, tag your pictures :-) )

If you look to the left of the main page, you will see a list of tags that we have already made. Try to use the ones that we have already made, if they fit. Such as if you have a Tinkerbell outfit, please use the tag "Tink" instead of making a "Tinkerbell" tag.

If there is no tag for your outfit, feel free to create one that fits.

We are trying to tag the pictures with the character and pattern. If you look at the tags, you look at the list of tags, you will get a feel for what we are doing. Each picture can have up to 20 tags, so feel free to use several.

To actually tag the pictures, Click on "Add Tags & Descriptions" which is just above all the thumbnail pictures. This will open up a new page.Here, you can put a Title, description and tags in. Click on "Click to add Tags"This will pop up only, it will be your picture, and not Heather's ;-):

You will notice a little box over your picture. If you want to tag different parts of your picture with separate tags, just move the box to the part you want to tag. (this is good if you have several different outfits in your picture)

Type in the name of the tag in the box and click "save"

You can then repeat the process until you have added all the tags you want for that picture.

Repeat for the next picture.

At the end of the page, click "Save and Continue"
If you accidentally create a duplicate tag, do to spelling or capitalization differences etc... you can click "remove" next to the tag and retype it.

How to Tie a Perfect Bow

2008-04-22T09:59:00.009-04:00

How to tie a proper bow (with fully lined ties)

1.)Facing dress, take each tie in opposite hand- left tie in right hand, etc

cross the left tie over the right tie

2.)wrap it under right tie and pull up and to the right

3.)gently, but firmly take right tie (that is now on the left) and form "bent bunny ear"

4.)take left tie (dangling over on right side) and pull down and to left to wrap around bunny ear,

5.)as you come up behind bunny ear pull thru hole and to to the right-

adjust and tighten.
6.)So the right tie ends up at the left side of bow and left tie becomes right side of bow.

Sock Curls by Castle Creations

2008-04-17T23:40:00.001-04:00

The sock curl is really easy. After washing your daughters hair, dry it until it's just barely damp, put in some hair product of your choice, gel, mousse, whatever...I usually use nothing. And you take a bunch of socks, and wind sections of hair around the socks and when you get up to her head, you just tie the ends of the socks together. It reminds me of when my grandmother used to do rag curls on us when we were little. The socks are great, because they absorb the excess dampness in the hair, and they aren't too bad to sleep on. In the morning....wa-la, curly hair...

How much should I charge for my items? by Ediebeedieboutique

2008-04-17T18:49:00.001-04:00

This is how I determine the cost of my clothing as well, although you need to account for profit as well. This is different from labor. Pricing your clothing this way, you will always be able to account for using more expensive fabrics or if you make a difficult design that takes more time to complete. See below:

Cost Plus Pricing

The best way to determine the prices you will charge for your products or services is to use a cost plus pricing formula and combine this with your overall pricing strategy. To accomplish this, you have to figure out your fixed operating costs, your variable costs associated with the delivery of services, the manufacturing of products, or the wholesale costs of products, and add a profit. The formula therefore is:

Variable costs + Fixed costs + Profit = Selling price.

Assume you sell services. Just remember that the following information can also be used to determine cost plus pricing for products. As a rule of thumb, labor costs generally represent the largest share of expenses for service providers. So the first step is to figure out how much you want to earn per hour. You should base our decision on three factors: How much money you need to earn to pay your personal expenses? What is the industry average for the job? Do you have a premium if the service you provide is highly specialized or risky?

Once you have determined how much per hour you want to earn, the next step is to calculate your fixed costs, which are business expenses that do not fluctuate regardless of the number of sales you make, such as the telephone, rent, and insurance. Use the attached worksheet to determine your fixed operating costs.

The next step is to determine the costs incurred in the delivery of the service, which is referred to as variable costs. For instance, if you operated a dog grooming service, the costs to purchase shampoo and grooming supplies for each dog groomed would be the variable costs. The next step is to calculate and add a profit. Every business needs to generate a profit in order to stay in business and stay competitive in the market place. Most small business owners use a percentage to calculate a profit on each job, such as total costs plus 20 percent. The final step is to tie it all together. The formula used to arrive at a selling price is to:

1. Multiple your labor rate by the number of hours to complete the job.
2. Add fixed expenses.
3. Add variable expenses.
4. Multiple the total of the three by your desired profit margin.
5. The total is your selling price.

For the example below, we will assume that fixed business expenses are $1,000 per month, and there are 160 billable work hours each month; $1,000 divided by 160 hours equals $6.25 per hour fixed expenses, and that the total job required 25 hours to complete

Labor rate, $20 per hour x 25 hours = $500.00

Fixed expenses, $6.25 per hour x 25 hours = $156.25

Variable expenses for the job = $150.00

Total = $806.25

Profit 20% = $161.25

Selling price = $967.50

Easy Gathers by candicenicole19

2008-04-14T23:13:00.003-04:00

If you want a nice even gather and you are not going for a SUPER twirl then what i do is crank up the tension all the way (Mine is 9) and the stitch length (Mine goes to 5) and slow down the machine to the slowest speed and you will have an awesome even gather! Works great for twirl skirts and jumper dresses! lol, It is my perferred method! Here is the only close up I can find of this method. it is a ruffle at the bottom of a pair of pants but you can see it gathers Nice at least!

Hello Kitty Button Shirt by Mytwotinks

2008-04-14T23:07:00.002-04:00

A couple of people have asked how I attached the buttons on this top so here are my very simple instructions!1.) I traced the shape of her head and marked the eyes, nose and center of the bow onto the shirt.2.) I used a teeny tiny thread of glue to attach the buttons. I started with the bow and then did the little bit of ear that shows behind that and then the rest of the head and the eyes and nose.3.) When the glue was dryish I used embroidery floss and attached the buttons.Super easy and fast! I think the whole thing took less than an hour.

Patchwork Twirl by candicenicole19

2008-04-13T16:22:00.004-04:00

What I do is use 6X6 squares (My dd is a size 2T so manybe smaller for your DD) I start with the top layer and usE 6 squares for the waistband, put to the sideThen I use 12 for the next row and 24 for the row after that.I fold the top layer to make a casing for my elastic and stitch into place. Then I gather the other rows using a basting stitch and pin the first l;ayer to the top of the second and sew, then serge and top stitch.I repeat with the second layer by attaching the 3rd layer to the top of the bottom of the second layer, sew, serge, topstitch add a ruffle at the bottom, add the elastic sew the casing closed and you are finished if you need any tips, PM me and I will help you! Hope it helps some! lol

The Bestest Applique Tutorial EVER! (By Heathersue, my baby sister)

2008-04-04T11:30:00.007-04:00

To Download the E-book of this tutorial, please click on the title of this post.

You can also download it from here:

http://www.box.net/shared/7fsj6dvprq

I’m by no means an applique expert, but this is the way I do appliqués. I hope this tutorial will help any beginners out there that are confused by how this whole process works!

Finding and preparing an image to applique:

First, you need to choose a picture that you want to use for your applique. There is no need to purchase an “appliquepattern”. I like to search google images or photobucket to find the picture I’m looking for. If you find a picture youlike, just save it to your computer. Next, you can resize it with photo editing software to the size you’d like. You can also use images from children’s books, coloring books, etc… You can either trace these images, or use your scanner to put them onto your computer and then print them. For this particular project, I’m going to use an image that is on a piece of fabric (scanned the fabric, then enlarged the part I wanted in Corel Paint Shop).

Once you have the picture you want to use, print it out.

If you don’t want the picture to be reversed when you applique it onto the shirt, trace around the lines that you want to use on your applique with a permanent or some kind of dark marker that will show through the paper. When you’re finished tracing the lines you want to use, flip the paper over and you’ll have the lines you want to use, without all the extra details that you don’t. You can go over the lines again if they are too light.

If you don’t mind the picture getting reversed onto your finished garment, go ahead and just trace the lines on the right side of the picture with a dark marker and use the right side for the following steps. Cutting your applique pieces: Next, you’ll need to get out your heat ‘n bond LITE paper (do not use ultra, only Lite). Put the paper over the side of the image you have determined in the last step.

Be sure that you place the smooth side of the heat ‘n bond up. You’ll need to decide which parts of the picture you want to do in different fabrics. After you have decided this, do each piece of the drawing that will be in a different fabric, on a separate part of the heat ‘n bond. You don’t want to just trace the picture exactly as it is, or you will not have room for overlapping.
Next, you’ll need to decide in which order you want to layer each piece. For this example, I wanted the sundae glass and the top scoop to be in the bottom layer, the straw to be in the middle layer and the middle scoop to be the very top layer. The bottom and middle layers will have to have an extra “seam allowance” so we can over lap other layers over them. So, I drew about ¼ inch extra seam allowance on each surface that will be overlapped with another piece.

In this instance, that was the top of the sundae glass, the bottom of the top scoop, and the bottom of the straw. The top layer will not have any extra edge on it because it will not be going underneath any other piece. Now, cut the pieces of heat ‘n bond out, leaving plenty of extra room around the pictures you have traced (don’t cut right on the lines!).

Next, get the different fabrics you want to use for the applique and iron all of the wrinkles out of them. After that, set your iron for the setting as directed on the heat ‘n bond (about a 2 on my iron). Place the cut pieces of the heat ‘n bond on the WRONG side of the fabric and iron them on . Now, take your scissors and cut out the fabric along the lines you have traced onto the heat ’n bond. It’s easier to cut nice straight lines since you left the extra heat ‘n bond around the edges.

Piecing together your applique and fusing it to the fabric:
Next, you will assemble the applique onto your Teflon pressing sheet. I bought the one shown below at JoAnn for $7.99. The pressing sheet is the large plastic sheet under the bag in the photo.

Put the picture you are working with underneath the pressing sheet (the sheet is see-through).

Peel the paper backing off of the fabric pieces and lay them on the pressing sheet. You can secure each piece in place with the iron as you go (in an up and down motion, don‘t slide the iron around like you do when you‘re smoothing wrinkles). Make sure you start with the bottom layer and work your way up. Overlap the pieces at the “seam allowances”.

When you’re finished with this step, you’ll have a good idea of what your applique will look like. You can move the pieces around until you’re happy with how it looks. Then, give it a final press with iron. Wait until it cools, and then carefully peel the applique off the sheet, trying to keep all the pieces fused together. The really cool part about the Teflon pressing sheet is that the applique will peel right off of it, but the heat ‘n bond will still work when you iron it onto the garment.

Next, prepare the fabric that you’re going to applique on. Iron all of the wrinkles out if it. Stabilizer will help to keep the fabric from puckering around the edges of the applique. I like the Sulky iron on, tear-away, stabilizer. Cut off a piece of stabilizer a little bigger than your applique and then iron it onto the WRONG side of the fabric. Don’t worry about it if the piece seems too big, you will be tearing away the excess when you’re done.

Now, turn the fabric with the attached stabilizer over so you’re working with the right side. Place the applique on the fabric where you want it to go. Make sure you have it centered and that you’ve taken the seam allowances of the finished garment into account. Iron it on, following the directions on the heat ‘n bond.

Sewing it on your garment/fabric:

Now you’re ready to start sewing! The best kind of foot to use for applique is an applique foot like the one pictured below, or something similar. Try to use thread that matches each color you are using in the applique. If you use a different color to outline, it is easier to see the mistakes! Some people use a different color bobbin thread, but I haven’t mastered that yet. My machine always tends to pull the bobbin thread up to the top, so I use matching bobbin thread and top thread. I like working with polyester thread for applique. I don’t recommend metallic threads for applique- they break!! Start with the bottom most layer and work your way up to the top piece. In this example, I could either start with the sundae glass or the top scoop, since they are both in the bottom layer. Begin by anchoring your thread. I have found that the best way to do this is to set your machine on zig-zag, with a setting of 0.2 or 0.3 for the stitch length and 0 for the stitch width. Here’s what it looks like on my Brother CS6000i machine.

With your needle right on the edge of the applique, where you want to begin sewing, sew 3-4 stitches forward and then

*3-4 stitches back to anchor your strings. (see picture at the bottom for backstitch button)

Then, reset your width to approximately 4.0 and leave the stitch length at 0.2 or 0.3. Raise your needle and then make sure it will come down precisely on the outer edge of the applique, when the needle is in the right hand position of the zig-zag stitch. Stitch a few stitches to make sure it’s landing right on the edge. Now, just try to follow the edge of the applique.

Now, what do you do when you come to a corner, or a turn?

This is where it gets tricky. You need to make sure you are turning your fabric the correct direction, with the needle in the correct position. In the above photo, you’ll need to lift the presser foot, with the needle in the down position, on the left hand side of the zig zag. Then turn your fabric to the right. You’ll leave your needle in the right hand position if you’re turning the other way. In the picture below, I went to the end point of where I wanted to stop, stopped with my needle in the down position on the right hand side and then turned my fabric right and continued zig-zagging.

This next photo shows what happens if I would have stopped with the needle in the left hand position and then turned my fabric right. You can see that it doesn‘t make a point on the corner if you leave the needle in the wrong position before turning.:

This same rule applies if you’re going around a curve. Here’s a curve where I stopped the needle in the wrong position before I turned my fabric:

This is something you can’t really learn by reading it. You just have to practice. The correct needle position and turning technique will become second nature with practice. When you’re done going around the first layer, set your stitch width to 0 again and backstitch 3-4 stitches and go forward 3-4 stitches to anchor your thread again. I like to clip my threads at this point. I cut them very close to the garment. If you anchor them as shown, they shouldn’t unravel.

Change your thread to the color of the next layer and go around that.

Continue doing this until you finish the top layer of your applique.

Now, turn the fabric over and rip off the excess stabilizer:
YOU’RE FINISHED!!!! Except for the little task of actually sewing the clothing together, that is!

Miscellaneous tips:

*If you happened to try to iron your stabilizer on the wrong side and it got your iron all gunked up, just get out an old towel and a sheet of fabric softener. Put the fabric softener on top of the towel and run your iron over it a few times. It will generally take the gooey stuff right off. Not that I have ever done that or anything ;o).

*Lots of people will tell you to go slow and take your time when appliquéing. But, I seem to do better looking appliqués, with smoother lines, when I go fast! LOL! Just experiment and see what works best for you.

*If you’re going to applique a face, it’s best to hand-embroider the eyes/nose/mouth. It’s really hard to get a face to look good with machine applique, especially if you’re a beginner. Here’s a link that has videos of the different embroidery stitches. http://www.needlenthread.com/2006/10/video-library-of-hand-embroidery.html I like the whipped back stitch for outlines and the satin stitch for filling in. Here are some examples of hand-embroidered faces:

If the character you’re appliquéing has larger features, like the ones below, it’s a little easier to use the machine and appliqué the faces. I also like to “cheat” by using buttons and such for some of the smaller features, like the turkey’s eye below. Be creative!

*When choosing fabrics for your applique, try to stick with patterned fabric (thanks for that tip, LisaZoe!). It doesn’t fray like a solid fabric will and it adds more texture to your applique. Remember that you can also use the back of the fabric for a different look.

*If you can’t find the right picture to use as a template for your applique, you can capture a picture from a movie. I like to use the program Intervideo WinDVD for this. The program came with my computer. It has a little camera on the menu while you’re watching the movie. You can just click the camera at the spot you wish to take a picture. It will take the picture and you can save it as a file. Then, use it as an applique template. This is how I got the Cinderella picture above.

*For more applique and other sewing tips, check out Teresa joy’s bookmarks: http://www.mybookmarks.com/public/teresajoy/#current

*The backstitch / reverse button usually looks like an arrow pointing backwards, as in #2 of the picture above.

Lydia Under the Pettiskirts

2008-04-03T14:14:00.000-04:00

Lydia having some fun with the pettiskirts!

Tutu by Flea

2008-04-02T23:32:00.001-04:00

How I do mine is I sew a length of ribbon to each end of the elastic (enough for waist measurement) - I use non roll medium width elastic - then I cut the tulle into strips depending on the length I want it - measure waist to whereever you want it to fall - double then add 2 inches.I've made lots now so I just gather and sew but if you want to just loop the tulle around the elastic in the colour pattern you like making it quite full then I do a 3 stage zig zag while slightly stretching the elastic. I find this makes a nice flat waistband and there are no knots to come undone.

Pettiskirt by LouiesMama

2008-03-25T14:15:00.001-04:00

I've never actually seen a pettiskirt in real life, so I just sort of guessed on the dimensions. Basically, the one I made is 2 layers, 3 tiers each (2" ruffle tier and two 6" tiers) with a ribbon waistband. I just cut 5 yards of tulle (I think it was 60" wide, but I'm not positive) into 6 inch and 2 inch strips with the rotary cutter. I then set the ruffler to ruffle to a factor of about 5, and ruffled the 2" strips onto 2 of the 6" strips. It was really time consuming because the edges of the two strips kept trying to stick together. Plus, the ruffler kept on jamming for some unknown reason (DH told me to go up and watch my own video ). I just kept ruffling and ruffling until it looked like the bottom tier would be full enough. Then I attached the bottom tiers to the top tiers, and the top tiers to the waistband.I used a really soft bridal tulle, but I'm really wishing I had gone with chiffon. The ends tend to stick and it just doesn't seem to hang right. Plus, it is too sheer at the top. It is for Louie's little friend Abbey (the cute redhead in the easy-fit and raglan eBooks), and I think it will be fine for photos and play, especially if she wears leggings with it .Anyway, it wasn't overly hard, just very time consuming (I probably have 4 or 5 hours into that one). If you are going to attempt one, make sure that you are very good friends with your ruffler attachment - LOL!

Original post here: http://www.disboards.com/showpost.php?p=24005356&postcount=3403

Dolly Tights By LivNDisney

2008-03-23T15:15:00.001-04:00

Ladies knee highs!!!!!Walmart sells 1 pair of ladies knee highs (in the little egg) for .39. 1 egg equals two pair of tights. Walmart usually has some really fun colors.Remove 1 knee high and turn it inside out. Smooth out the wrinkles. The top (open part) becomes the waist. Make a small mark in the middle of the stocking about 5 inches from the top of the waist. (This will be the "crotch")

Fold the stocking in half long ways. Make a mark 1/2 inch from the middle on either side of the middle. These are the feet.

Starting at the toe stitch up the leg from one mark to the top mark. Stitch from the top mark down the other leg. Cut up the middle between the two stitch lines. (Be careful not to cut the stitches or cut too close to the stitches) You can serge the inside seam but it is not necessary. Trim as needed and turn rightside out. (You can also "shorten" the legs of the tights by sewing across the toes)Once I had made a few pair of these, I moved on to using "trouser socks". They are a little more costly, but they tend to be "thicker" and a little more durable. They also have some neat patterns that look really cute as tights. Just remember to only use socks with no heel.

Jham's 30 Minute Skirt (including math time)

2008-03-21T18:06:00.000-04:00

Here is my easiest ever skirt (30 minutes including math!), I'm sure some of you have made it before, it is not exactly genious. And here is the "recipe":Figure out how long you want it (in this case it was 20"), subtract 3" for the border strip, then add 1 3/4" for casing and seam allowances and cut that length the width of your fabric (45") so in this case I cut 18 3/4". I cut a strip of the border fabric 6 1/2"X 45", folded it in half, wrong sides together. I ironed it, then laid it on top of the right side of my big piece, raw edges lined up, then stiched a 1/4" seam allowance, serged my seam, turned serged edge up towards main body of skirt and topstitched it, then stitched the one side seam. I then serged the top edge of the fabric, or you can turn it under 1/4", then I turned it under about another 1 1/4 inch, then stitched around making a (1") casing, leaving an opening for my elastic, then threaded through some 3/4" elastic, sewed the ends together and stitiched my casing closed. Now I just need to make the peasant top to match! I like how it turned out! I only needed a tad over 1/2 yard of fabric for the skirt (could've made it with 1/2 yard) and 1/4 yard for the contrasting border.

Circle Wrap Skirt by 100AcrePrincess

2008-03-21T13:29:00.001-04:00

Some very sweet person on here (I think it was jham, but I'm awful with names) gave me a run down on the directions & I ran from there. Basically, the skirt is 2 half circle skirts & 1 quarter circle sewn together (there are several patterns & instructions for circle skirts in Teresa's bookmarks). You finish 2 of the straight sides instead of joining them all together. Then you make the waist band really wide (I think mine was like 3 or 4 in wide when it was finished) & reall long (I used 2 45" lengths). I wrapped it around dd & marked where the end wrapped to on the waist band & made a button hole almost the same width as the waist band.

Easy Beret Project

2008-03-16T17:47:00.000-04:00

From Sew What's New

The beret is the perfect choice for those not quite ready for a big hat. Simple line and classic styling suit everyone. Any coating, fleece or velvet will be fine.
You will need 16" by at least 32" of fabric. Ribbing 4 1/2" by 18". Apleasing contrasting colour of ribbing looks better than a poor colourmatch. Neutrals can pull an outfit together.
1. Cut two large circles 13" in diameter, put one aside and cut a smaller 7" circle out of the centre of the second circle. Now you have one in a donut shape.
2. Place the two circles right sides together, sew around outside edge in 1/4" seam allowance.
3. Turn work right side out. Topstitch carefully around outer edge, this will keep the outer edge from having a rippled effect.
4. Cut ribbing 4 1/2" by 18". Stitch ends together, fold in half and sew to hat. Stretching ribbing evenly to fit. Embellish with your favourite pin and wear proudly. Machine embroidery could also come into play here.

Pants Directions, Including no side seam by Camelotcats

2008-02-25T17:34:00.000-05:00

Origianally found at: http://www.disboards.com/showpost.php?p=23433064&postcount=681

There's a really easy way to make pants with or without a side seam, as long as it's for a kid, or pajama pants.
To make pants with a side seam:Cut 4 rectangles of fabric.
The measurements are:
Width: 1/4 the hip measurement (Or waist measurement, whichever's bigger) of the person the pants are for plus 2.5" (3.5" for an adult)
Length: Outseam measurement (waist to ankle) plus 2.5"
Put two rectangles right sides together and cut a "J" out of one top-side of both rectangles.
The J should be about 9-10" high and 2" deep. Similar to the cut out of a peasant top arm-hole. (does this make sense??)

sew the "j"'s together.

Do the same thing on the other 2 rectangles
.Open up both sets, and line up the pants with the J's in the center, and sew up one leg and down the other.
Then sew together the ouside seams.

I then serge all of the raw edges....you could turn them over once or zig zag if you don't have a serger.
Turn under .5" at the top ans sew down, then turn under 1" and sew that down leaving room for elastic (or a waistband). use 3/4" elastic or a drawstring fo the waistband.

I Did take a pic of my FAVORITE tool for feeding drawstrings and/or elastic:

Hem legs.
The safety pins are to attach the tool tot he elastic, since it doesn't feed through the "eye".I hope these pics help!! I have to get back to my sewing!!ETA: Oh!! the way I remember that the curvy part is the crotch, is the CURVE has to go over a tushie (which is curvy). That way I sew the correct parts together.
For Side seam free pants:Make TWO rectangles, the same length as above and twice the width as above.
Put the two rectangles right sides together and cut the "j"'s on BOTH top corners of the rectangles.
Sew both sets of J's together.
open up the pants with the J's lined up in the middle, and sew up the inside seams.
Do the waistband the same, and hem.
Clear as mud?
The pants are pretty unconstructed, and on adults can be prettty wide-legged.
I do this for all of my kids pants and shorts.
I hope this wasn't too confusing.
The "j" is harder to explain than it is to do.

Soda Pop Crock Pot Chicken (WW Core)

2008-02-21T20:24:00.000-05:00

DIET CHERRY VANILLA DR. PEPPER CROCK POT CHICKEN
4-8 Chicken breasts
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
1 cup Diet Cherry Vanilla Dr. Pepper
1 cup kethup
1/4 cup lemon juice
3 tbs worcestershire sauce
3 tbs brown sugar twin
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp garlic powder
1/2 tsp onion powder
Mix everything but the chicken together and add it to the crock pot. Brown the chicken in a little bit of oil first and then put it in the crock pot. Cook it in the crock pot until it's done. I took the chicken out and put it on a plate, then transferred the sauce into a saucepan and boiled it until it thickened up. Then, I spooned a little on top of the chicken. It was REALLY good! My husband even really liked it and he doesn't like "weird stuff".

Weight Watchers Core Recipe

2008-02-16T23:12:00.001-05:00

Corset Top Faux Lacing Directions by LisaZoe

2008-02-10T23:09:00.000-05:00

Cut the front piece 1/2 the length of measurement A plus 3" for ease
and seam allowance. The width is equal to measurement C plus
1.25" for seam allowance. Cut this into two equal pieces down the
center widthwise.
Cut the insert panel 4" wide and the length of measurement C plus
1.25" for seam allowance.
With panel section right side up, place pieces of ribbon in a crossing
pattern as shown in illustration. Pin in place once you're satisfied with
the layout and baste stitch.
Attach one half of front piece to each side of the panel and press
seams away from panel. Topstitch if wanted.
Trim sides of completed front section so it is 1/2 the length of
measurement A plus 3" for ease and seam allowance. Make sure the
inserted panel is centered before cutting. Following illustration, cut
armscye (I fold my fabric in half widthwise so I can cut both at once).
Cut a second piece identical in size and shape for the lining.
Once the top is completely assembled, I sometimes add a bow sewn
to the center of the bottom ribbon in the inserted panel. This is
optional but adds to the illusion of lacing.

2008-02-10T21:53:00.001-05:00

Zuma Wrap Pants by:Camelotcats

2008-02-07T23:14:00.001-05:00

Wrap pants:Measure the person who will be getting the pants at their waist, their hip, and their thigh. Take a pattern for a pair of pants that fit the recipient and trace the inside crotch seam and inner-leg seam to the ankle hem.At the waist, go out 1/2 the waist measurement minus 1 inch for every 10 inches the waist is after the first 10 inches. (For example, if the waist is 22", go out 10" from the center seam, if the waist is 32", go out 14", etc.) You can round this number up OR down as desired (usually the smaller sizes I round up, the bigger, down). Depending on the fullness desired for the pants, you can either go straight down from the point at the waist or you can taper or curve in at any point to change the shape of the wrap. This is a very free-form thing, but never go below 1/4 the thigh measurement plus 2-3" (or 1/4 hip plus 2-3" above the crotch point), or the sides of your leg won't be covered. The more coverage you make on the sides of the pants, the more your leg will be covered on a regular basis, otherwise when you walk, the pants will flap open and flash your leg. I tend to make less coverage adn let my legs come out, but then again, I only have one pair of these that I made as a swimsuit cover-up.If you want the little wrap in the front like the zuma pants have, make the back pant pieces 1/2 the waist plus about 4 or 5 inches. At the hip, severely curve inwards (Towards the inner leg seam) to about 1/4 the hips plus 3 or 4 inches for overlap, then curve back out at the lower thighs/knees like the pants pattern does for the bell on the bottom. The front pieces (which wrap underneath) don't need to be fancy. Also, if there is too much fabric at the tushie (since the fabric will nearly all the way back to the center in the back), you can make the front pieces 1/2 waist minus 2 or 3 inches so the fabric ends at the side of the tush instead of going all the way into the middle underneath. If you want to wrap either way, though, make the front pieces like the back but without the overlap.The actualy pattern of the Zuma pants looks like they use the severe swoop from the waist to the hips to avoid bulk at the tushie. I had never seen this before until I looked at the pattern, but it is a very neat idea. I think it could be imitated with a little trial and error without needing a whole different pattern.At the bottom hem, round off from the outseam to the hemline so there's not a sharp corner.Cut out 2 fronts and 2 backs, remembering that the front will wrap around and tie in the back and the back will wrap around and tie in the front...Sew the pants together at the crotch and inseams just like you would for a regular pair of pants.Using double fold bias, bind the outseam down over the hem and up the other outseam (Does this make sense?). This will finish your raw edges. If you want to, you could also turn under all of these raw edges. OR you could make them reversible and cut 4 fronts and 4 backs and sew them together with right sides and trun inside out before attaching the waist.Now, for your waist, you can do one of three things (Actually you can do more, but these are the basics):1. Bind the tops with the bias leaving long tails on either side of the pants to tie around the waist. 2. using matching or contrasting fabric, make two long strips. attach the strips to the waist leaving long tails on either side. (there are many ways to do this, I'm sure your way is better than mine as mine involves a lot of hand top-stitching).An option with each of the above methods for a cleaner back:On the front part of the wrap pants, measure the ties that will go around to the back. make the entire waistband with the extra tails the waist measurement plus 4-6 inches (for larger waists, you may want to make it +8"). clean finish the ends of the tails and attach either buttons, snaps, or velcro to go under the back of the pants, instead of another tie.3. You can make the tops of the pants a little longer and thinner with the top being closer to the waist plus a few inches, similar to the Zuma pants, then either bind the top or put on a waist band, leaving no extra for tails. Then attach buttons, snaps, or velcro to the ends, so when you overlap the extra length you can attach them together. (this method does involve some sort of curving out below the waist and above the crotch to avoid bunching up at the center)

Corset Top by LisaZoe

2008-02-07T19:43:00.000-05:00

Get these measurements of your child (see illustration):
A. around the chest
B. from underarm to 1-2" below the waist
C. from 1-2" below the waist to where the upper edge of the top will be
D. across the top of the chest, about where the upper edge of the top will
be
E. over shoulder from about where the upper edge of the top will be in
front to just below underarm level in the back (this is for straps)
Cut the front piece 1/2 the length of measurement A plus 3" for
ease and seam allowance. The width is equal to measurement C
plus 1.25" for seam allowance. Following illustration, cut armscye (I
fold my fabric in half widthwise so I can cut both at once). Cut a
second piece identical in size and shape for the lining.
Cut the back piece the length of measurement A and width of
measurement B plus 1.5" for seam & hem allowance.
Cut bottom ruffle twice the length of A plus 1.25" for seam
allowance and 3.5" wide to allow for a ruffle about 2.5" wide plus
hem and seam allowance. Sometimes I can do this in one piece
cut across width of fabric but sometimes I need 2 pieces of equal
length (the length of A plus 1.25" for seam allowance).
Cut 2 straps the length of measurement E plus 1.25" for seam
allowance and 3.5" wide.
Hem the top edge of the back by folding over 1/4" then folding again 1/4". Press and then stitch in place. Do the first row
of shirring stitches about 3/4" from hemmed edge and then approximately every 3/4" stopping about 2" from bottom
edge. I back stitch the start and end of each row plus hand tie the elastic in knots every two rows.
Fold strap pieces lengthwise with right sides together, stitch the length of each strap, turn rightside out, press with seam
centered on what will be the back side of the straps.
Pin straps to main top piece along upper edge approximately 1"
from outer edge. For best results the straps should be angled

slightly so once they are attached they will angle away from the
neck (see illustration). With strap pieces in place and front pieces
right sides together, stitch along top edge and both armscyes.
Sandwich shirred back section between two front pieces making
sure right side of back faces right side of main front piece and hem
of back section is at underarm. Pin the 3 pieces together along
side seams and stitch. Turn rightside out and press along seam.
Stitch side seams of ruffle piece(s) and hem along bottom of ruffle like back section was hemmed. Baste along top edge
of one half the length of the ruffle along seam line and then again 1.4" from edge. Note: The ruffle will only need to be
gathered along half the length since it will be sewn to the back section without gathering (the shirring of the back will
casue the ruffle to look gathered). Pin in place to the bottom edge of the main top pieces and stitch. Press along seam
toward main section and topstitch if desired.
At this point I think it's easiest to have your child try on the top so you can pin the straps in place in the back or at least
mark where you'd attach them and the final length. I usually hem the bottom edge of the straps to give them a nice edge
then stitch them to the back along at least two of the shirring lines. I don't stretch out the shirring so it gets stitched over
and is not longer stretchy in those places but it works.
Sit back and take pride in what you've created. :-)

Autograph Bag by buffy0214

2008-02-07T19:36:00.001-05:00

The bags are 10 3/4 x 8 3/4; pocket 4 1/2 x 7 1/4
The backpack is 10 3/4 square. I made it for a 3.5 year old, so you may need to adjust size.
I cut an old piece of 12x12 scrapbook paper to size to make a pattern. for each bag you will need:
1/2 yard of fabric-for bags cut four squares and 1 pocket; for backpack cut four
squares (you can also get 1/3 yard for outside and 1/3 for lining if you want you
lining to be different)
fusible batting (kinda like felt with fusible backing); Cut 2 the same size as bags for each bag.
Also, you will need at least 1 yard of the lanyard (measure how long you want it to
be and add about 4 inches) and some sew on velcro.

Sewing Directions:
1) Iron fusible batting to 2 outside pieces and pocket piece
Pocket
2) Turn top of pocket down 5/8; top stitch on outside at 1/2
3) Turn sides in 5/8; press. Pin to center front of purse, bottom is even with purse bottom. Stitch sides of pocket to purse front close to edge.
Purse
*hint: when sewing through batting, you might need to increase stitch length* Sew at 5/8 unless otherwise mentioned.
4) Pin purse front to purse back, right sides together. Stitch sides and bottom. Trim edges.
5) Line up side seam with bottom seam until you get a corner edge. Stitch 1 inch down (looks like a triange after stitching). Do the same to the other corner. This adds fullness to the purse. I didn't trim this in order to add stability.

Lining
6) Sew velcro tab in center of both sides of lining, 1 1/4 inch from top.
7) Pin lining front to back, right sides together. Stitch sides. Sew bottom but don't
sew it closed. You need a hole in the middle to turn the purse. So, sew from each side edge towards the center. Repeat step 5 above for purse only.

Add lining to purse
8) Turn purse right side out. Lining should be inside out. Put the purse inside the lining so the right sides are together; Pin top and stitch.
9) Turn the purse through the hole in the lining. Every thing showing should be right sides.
10) Stitch the hole in the lining closed
11) Put lining inside purse. Top stitch 1/4 on top of purse.

Lanyard
12) Cut lanyard to size. I fray-checked the edges but not sure if it was needed.
Turn each edge under 1 inch and sew to purse at sides near top. I put mine just below the top-stitching.
For backpack, cut lanyard in half. Skip step 2 & 3. Before starting step 4, pin lanyard to backpack front, about 2 inches up, even with raw edge of side. Do this with both sides. Continue step 4.

Skip step 5.

At step 12 I pinned the lanyard about 2 1/2 inches in from sides, and about 1 inch from top.

Ruffle Hints by Various Disers

2008-02-07T19:28:00.000-05:00

Measure out the width you want the ruffle and double it - then cut. You will need to make sure that the material you cut is a lot longer than the width of your outfit since you want it to ruffle. Put your machine on the longest stitch and sew the edges together. BE SURE AN DON'T BACK & FORWARD STITCH BECAUSE YOU WILL BE PULLING THE THREADS. Start out by making the hanging strings longer than normal since you are going to pull them. Sew all the way to the end of the fabric and cut the strings longer. DON'T BACK AND FORWARD STITCH ON THE OTHER END EITHER! Take one end of the ruffle and find the string that will pull through the fabric the easiest. Pull it little and then move the material along to ruffle it. Do this the whole length of your fabric. Be careful not to pull to hard b/c strings can break and you will have to start all over. When you get your ruffle how you want it, pin to the garment and sew on.
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I do my ruffles a little different. I do measure the garment hem or wherever for the length I need. So if my skirt measures 40 inches I cut enough for 80. I sew the ends of the ruffle together and make a big loop. I pin my 2 edges(seams) to match the garment, then I pin only the center and 2 or three places on either side of the center line. This way when I'm sewing I just gather it as I go along
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RUFFLES - I do the same idea kind of but I use dental floss. Sew it on with zigzag, going over the floss, then pull the floss at the end. Pin and sew.
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I have a Gathering "trick" that produces the most beautiful gathers and ruffles. I use 3 gathering threads, one on the seam, one above and one below. That way, after you gather it up you have 2 holding rows keeping your gathers just perfect as you sew. This keeps the garment looking "handmade" instead of "homemade" It does take an extra minute or so, but it looks better than any other way. They turn out perfect.

Ribbon Belt by TheDizMom

2008-02-07T19:23:00.001-05:00

I took red grosgrain ribbon in 1 1/2" width and white in 1" width and sewed them together with black thread, so there is a small line of black on the edge of the white. Then I bought a set of small Mickey themed stamps and using black fabric markers on the stamp alternated Mickey and Minnie faces along the white ribbon. I then folded the completed ribbon in half, tucked in the loops and sewed it up with red thread. I made the ribbons long enough to fold in half so both sides of the belt were the same and when the ribbon is pulled through the loops it looks identical. It was so easy and took me only about 2 hours, and that was with constant interruptions from my DD and having bobbin problems with my machine. I just think it's so fun and why can't we moms have something custom made too. I like it so much I think I am going to have to make one for myself ! Now my kids want one too.

Ruffled Dora Pants and shirt- Chim Chiminy

2008-02-07T19:08:00.000-05:00

I kind of made it up as I went.................I made the ruffle first, hemming the bottom edge of the fabric and machine finishing the other raw edge, so it wouldn't fray. Then I ran the gathering stitch that others talked about on here. Oh, and I sewed the sides of the fabric together so it was like a tube or a cuff. Gathered the fabric. I cut off about four inches from the bottom of the jeans. I then fit the gathered fabric to the jean and sewed it on.Then I placed the grosgrain ribbon over the top of the fabric, where it met the jeans, and stitched both edges of the ribbon (top and bottom) with a straight stitch. I used two strips of the grosgrain.
It was super simple, and I hope I explained it clearly. I made sure to finish all edges so fabric and denim wouldn't fray. And for the shirt, I sewed on the ribbon the same way. With the bows, again I made it up as I went, so it made sense to me. I put fraycheck on the ends of the ribbons for the bow so they won't unravel.

Pillowcase Halter Dress by AKsunshine

2008-02-07T18:43:00.000-05:00

Cut out the dress. After I cut the arm holes, I cut the back so that it
was about 1.5 " above the lowest part of the holes. I folded this over
and made a casing just wide enough for my elastic, also making it at
the same level now as the lowest part of the holes. I cut the elastic
about as wide as the outside of her shoulder blades, knowing it
would sit lower and not need to be as wide as say half way around
her rib cage. I stitched the edges of the casing and elastic together
really well. Then I made a 1" casing on the front and pulled through
coordinating ribbon. I used grosgrain, 1.5".

Layered Tulle Dress by a Diser (if this is yours, please post!)

2008-02-07T18:32:00.000-05:00

I took my daughter's waist measurement and
doubled it for the width of the skirt, then I
measured how long I wanted it and cut my
fabric, adding enough for seam allowances on
both sides and the top and bottom (add enough
for elastic casing.)
Then I sewed up the sides and hemmed the
bottom.
Next, I cut the tulle to the length I wanted (a
few inches shorter than the skirt) then I
gathered the tulle and sewed it a couple inches
from the top of the skirt. I drew a line with
sewing chalk for placement.
Next, I cut the top fabric a couple inches shorter
than the tulle, lined up the raw edges of the top
and bottom fabric, folded over for the elastic
casing and sewed that, leaving an opening to
thread the elastic through, then thread the
elastic and sew up the opening.

Marshamallow Fondant Icing by Kstgelais4

2008-02-07T17:13:00.000-05:00

Here is the recipe I use. Super easy. It's kind of like edible playdough. My kids love playing with the scraps..

.A very tasty alternative to buttercream icing or regular fondant.Read the full instruction and photos here!

16 oz white marshmallows

2 tb water2 lb icing sugar (approx. 8 cups confectioners' or powdered sugar)(DO NOT USE ALL OF THE SUGAR)

1. Melt marshmallows and water in a double boiler or microwave.Heat until melted.

2. Place half of the sugar in a bowl. Make a well in the middle.Pour melted marshmallow in and mix.

3. Add remaining sugar and continue kneading. (add more powedered sugar in tablespoons as you are kneading. Micture should not be sticky)TIPS---grease your hands and the bowl.Also, let this stuff rest overnight.It will be pretty stiff when you try to knead it again, but it can be microwaved for five to ten seconds (start off with 5) and it will soften right up and be perfect for rolling out and playing with.

Discard all the crusty residues.

TO USEif fondant is too hard, place about 30 sec. in microwave. Dust work table with cornstarch, and knead for a couple of minutes.Then roll as thin as you want with rolling pin dusted in cornstarch. To avoid it from stickin to your work surface, turn rolled dough frequently, and continue dusting with cornstarch until you have reached desired thinnes.To color: Separate small amounts of fondant & color with paste food colours to the desired tone. Knead until colour is smooth and completely uniform.This fondant does not set fast at all. When you have formed your flowers, set them on a curved surface so they don't loose their shape (hang them upside down) It will not be as perfect as Gum Paste, but it will work. Also, start making flowers at least two days in advance to allow them to set.

Lisa Zoe Stripwork skirt Directions

2008-02-06T20:00:00.000-05:00

Quote:
Originally Posted by tadamom
I have a question for you....when you make your strips for the skirt is the top of your strips narrower than the bottom? If so what measurements do you use? TIA

Answer by LisaZoe:

I make mine wedge shaped rather than rectangles. What I did was use the markings on my cardboard cutting board (the kind that's about $15 and folds out to about the size of a twin size mattress). It has a section with curved lines that make up a wedge of a circle. I decide the approximate size I want for the top of the wedge and start there to make the wedge the desired length. For these, the bottom width of the wedge is about three times that of the top. I like doing wedges because it allows for a lot more twirl at the bottom without having a lot of gathered fabric where it attaches to the bodice. I've created a few wedge "templates" to use so I use fabric as efficiently as possible. Here's an example of how they'd be layed out on a length of fabric. Of course, it doesn't work out as well with fabric that has an obvious direction to the print.

Applique on Knits by LouiesMama

2008-02-03T21:31:00.001-05:00

Posted by LouiesMama:
I found some pics of some simple appliques I did when Louie was a baby. Here is a Nemo set:

They were really easy to do - I just ironed heat n bond lite on the back of a scrap of the character fabric, cut out a square around the character, ironed it onto the background scrap, and ironed heat n bond lite to the back of that. Then I used my clear quilters ruler to mark the lines for the second square (usually 1/4" from the edges of the first square), cut along the lines, and fused the layered square to the top. This is before I knew how to satin stitch on knits, so I just zig-zagged - fast and cute! Just make sure you use a ball point needle!Carla

Organized Sewing Room by The_Seamstress

2008-02-03T21:04:00.000-05:00

Posted by TheSeamstress: I got fed up with just sewing out of a roll-out/fold-away-desk ... so, I took over an "extra" room ... It was small, so it got filled up very fast ...I got fed up again.I emptied the room, made new desks & shelves, put it all back ...NOW, it's fine. =) I just hope we don't have to move anytime soon! (this is a 12'by12' room)